Lancstree

I'll be there, should be good.

I've just had an idea. When inputting a title for a new thread, write all in lower case so that when you type in a search word you are more likely to get a hit because you will know its in lower case.

By the way I'm no computer geek, I type with my fist!

I've got a pdf for a buckingham portawrap, any use?

One hangs slightly lower than the other to prevent them knocking together too much

Done it a couple of times in the states in 1998/9 so quite some time ago. From what I remember of it I installed 3 terminals at the three highest points in the crown (I mean as close as humanly possible to the tips but on a sufficient diameter branch). The three terminals had copper wire running down to the main stem where they met and then were run down in as straight as possible line (as electricity takes the path of least resistance). The wire then went underground to an earth pole several meters from the base. For this a narrow trench about 1m deep was dug, with the aid of a stump grinder where possible, then filled back up.

I seem to remember the system being invasive because copper 'U' nails were used to tack the cable to the tree so not sure if it is still practised that way or not.

Haha you silly sausage! Yeh, I'm up for trying it but it will take some doing to get one at work as they won't let us use our own gear, yet won't spend owt on us.

Cheers mate. I'm going to call Acorn today

I think I'll try out that idea. Seen it done before and it does work well but does it make it more difficult when the anchor is reached and you want to go higher? I suppose it shouldn't if the loop or quckdraw aren't too long.

I know what you mean but if (for whatever reason) you have to let go with both hands when you have advanced and before you can tend the slack, you are going to fall that distance. In addition, if the knot needs to be touched up before it grips properly you could be in for a free fall - unless you have a back up of some kind.

For me 'reducing a fall arrest situation' is not an option because I'm not in fall arrest gear. To me it undermines the point of wearing work position gear. I mean no disrespect to those that choose this method by the way and I'm sure many people have had fruitful hours of climbing this way.

What I'm looking for is a method of slack tending without breaking the bank until I get a chance to try out different mechanical devices such as the lock and spider jacks.

I didn't know you could replace the sheath, but for the price its just as well to replace the lot. I'll try and get a pic soon.

Thanks jonesie I'll pass on that price to the gaffers.

The damage appears only on the black sheath at the moment. Is the load bearing part white in colour?

I've still not come across a satisfactory way of doing this with friction cord and a petzl Fixe pulley. I've seen many pictures of people's set-up that show the pulley on the carabiner between the legs of the friction hitch, but the issue I have is that the setup remains too close to get an effective thrust. I've seen people pulling on the rope above the knot then tending the slack as they advance but is that not creating a fall-arrest situation?

I think we need another meet up soon to play around with gear!

Really? £8 for those two biners and the sling? What's the black tape for if you don't mind me asking?

Its not even coming out of his pocket, that's what gets my goat! Replacement bridges don't cost much do they?

I'm on my second bridge for the current harness. I requested a new bridge because the outer black webbing has worn to a point where you can nearly see inside and put your finger in. The wear is covers about 1-2 inch of it. The boss says... 'its right innit, that's just the outer coating, its just when the load bearing part starts wearing you get it replaced innit?'

What's the recommended wear on these bridges before they are to be put out of use. I would say for such a critical part that is so easy to replace every six month, replace once the protective coating starts to open up. A few quid for the sake of a life.

To be honest if I tried to do it myself it wouldn't be much good as I don't have the knowledge. I've only had my own house for a couple of years and previous to that I've never been able to play around with buildings. Besides, if I got someone in they could have it done in a few days where as I might drag it out for ages.

Anyone know who is the best to get to install a stove in lancashire? I heard Acorn are pretty good. I just want someone to do the lot - install the fire, repair chimney, sweep it, put hearth in, pot on etc

Why not?

It's history in the sense of the family lineage aspect of loggers in Oregon but its work going on today. It does show snippets of ox and horse forwarding which is largely history though it is still practised. By the time this post is read it will be history!

Excellent. Its always good to see stuff like this to learn from.

They always seemed a little too close to those skylines, their escape routes for felling were loco. Those blokes running down the hill with the lines must be fit as dogs.

Its interesting to see how the different teams do the work

SWL = MBS/SF Is that correct?

I haven't got the money to do that course too!

I've not done cs 41 but have substantial experience in dismantling. Looked at the assessment schedule and it doesn't go into any detail on it, so how do I get this elusive information? Tom D, do you mind me asking where you get this 'official' ratio from?

Did anyone go? I jibbed out because I couldn't find out enough about it