Amelanchier

IMO its market forces coupled with an increasingly litigous society. Houses are major investments and people are more willing and able to go to court over damage. Unfortunatley for trees, the evidence is against them. We can't pretend its not, thats why the bloody construction and legal professions don't take us seriously! (See attached and linked .pdfs) http://www.oca-arb.co.uk/pub/journal_of_building_appraisal.pdf In case anyone didn't know, the TPO application process is out for consultation with the aim of stremlining the process to bring it within a general overhaul of planning applications. The upshot is that as part of this, local authorties will be given the provision to ask for any supporting documents they deem reasonable to support applications to work on TPO trees. That means two things - 1. Lots more demand for reports (good for me!!) 2. Local authorities can demand PROPER reports and surveys with regard to TPO trees in subsidence cases. breIP706.pdf

Oh and in terms of the AIA. Point out to the client that they may need an engineer to propose different foundation designs. If they won't do that then it is unlikely the plans will get much further - they wouldn't with us. You may be at a point where you cannot provide an AIA that will get consent.

Depends on your foundation design. As mistertee says - BS5837 allows you, the professional, to use your judgement as to where the roots are and define the root protection area as you see fit. If you don't think the roots grow radially to a perfect circle from the centre then you can plot you area in a different way. So the question is, is the trees root morphology accurately deined by your RPA? If so then is there and engineering solution that could mitigate the issue? If not then, yep absolutely stuffed mate. Build a smaller house!

Are you adveritised on this website? http://www.treesurgeonsregister.com They give out some pretty interesting advice... And I quote... In removing a tree branch it is important to make sure you have the correct tools for the job, it also helps if the tools are of quite a high standard so the best possible cut can be achieved. It's also important for you to be completely confident with the process as if not done properly it could damage the tree and cause even more problems for you to try and solve later on. There are many reasons you should regularly prune your tree to remove damaged or diseased branches, to shape the tree, to remove branches that are obstructing space needed etc. Here are some of the tools you will require in the process of removing a tree branch of a fairly large size: A ladder - Ensuring it is the correct size for you to stand comfortably next to the branch you want to cut with plenty of room to your side for the branch to fall when finally cut through. A saw - Depending on the thickness of the branch you may need to use a wide toothed manual saw or in instances with bigger tree branches you may need to use a chain saw to remove it. Chisel and hammer - These will create a groove for you to cut through the branch easier. Pruning sealer - This need only be used if the weather is very dry, however, it is best to carry out pruning around autumn when there is more moisture so it's easier for the tree to heal over the cut. Once you have all the necessary equipment the process is fairly simple as explained below: You firstly need to establish where the best position for you to work from is because you will need a fair bit of space surrounding your ladders for you to saw properly and also for the branch to fall without catching your ladder on the way down. Once you have your position you need to start by climbing up the ladder so you're able to reach the underneath of the branch sawing about half way through the branch. Then climb so you reach above the branch sawing in the same place as underneath so to cut right the way through the branch. Once you have removed this excess part of the branch you will be left with a small stump to remove this you need to be very careful with how close to the bark you saw so not to cause more damage than needed to the main tree trunk. This is where you would use your wide toothed saw or chain saw to cut just above the collar of where the branch comes off the main trunk, this means the tree can then heal over the hole left by the removed branch easier. Then if you have completed this work in quite dry weather you may need to apply a sealing balm just to help the tree hold moisture better this aiding the speed in which the tree can heal over. It is always important to make sure you are pruning your tree correctly because if you do it wrong it can be worse for your tree than not doing it at all so if you're at all not sure on how to complete this process hire a professional. It's also important to take many safety measures when completing this work because of the height and tools your using, so it's always a wise idea to have some one with you when you're actually up the tree.

Some of Chris Skellerns stuff is pretty good, and well used. http://www.chrisskellern.co.uk/products.htm

Not the full version by any means, but worth a click http://www.performance-web.de/brudi/rigging_en/main.asp Wotcha think? Useful? Tell you stuff that you already knew/could have worked out? Hmmmmm?

Rope onto towball with a pile hitch for pulling with a vehicle

Too true sir. Too true.

Indeed I did. But if its not safe to climb? How do you do it? We looked at the options and decided on the platform. I assume your reasoning is that if the tree fails it doesn't make much difference if you're next to it in a basket or tied into it in a harness. Quite right too, but when we assessed the tree we decided that should the stem fail at the cavity it would fail in a predictable direction. We positioned the platform behind the stem from that direction. Lessening the risk IMO I love climbing and don't get to do much these days but I don't think you can rule a mewp out as a valid option.

very true

ha. If the treework is done right what does the mewp matter? I guess that's not your priority... Real men don't use mewps? Are you serious?

We weren't aiming for safer, we were aiming for easier. we simply considered that rigging the tree out from a mewp was easier given the situation/site/staff/kit we had available. The top was felled, not rigged. No shock load.

subbies? deathwish? macho self-image?

Steve - Even on a 3ft diameter stem? Using a big saw is much more comfortable from a basket. Hey you can even take the fuel up with you! Skyhuck - Tree striking mewp? If you're worried about the tree falling over and hitting the mewp, is it a tree you should climb? Probably not. Thats something to look at in the risk assessment. Its all about the outreach baby.

No they're not. Its all down to your risk assessment. Just because your happy to climb some dead, shady wobbly piece of cr*p doesn't make you a better arborist. As for blocking down a stem. There is no way you can move down a stem faster on spikes than a mewp can. On spikes - Having finished previous cut. Slacken lanyard and/or lifeline. Spike down into next work position. Adjust lifeline and lanyard into safe positions. Make cut. Chuck piece. Repeat 20 times. Mewp - Having finished previous cut. Press down button/lever. Make cut Chuck piece. Repeat 20 times. Oh yeah spikes are so much quicker.

I judge the climbing part of an Arb comp in Norwich running on the last weekend of April. http://www.ukgamefair.co.uk/comp.html Open to all, novices and experts. Prizes sponsered by arbtalk.co.uk and arbjobs.com, so you know its all good! Here is the official blurb... "This is a fun competition for all tree climbers and cutters from beginners to die-hard arborists and foresters past their best. The plan for the weekend is to have fun and get as many tree folk together for a bit of a chin-wag etc. If you would like to have a go then please fill in the enrolment form to reserve your place and post, e-mail or fax it back to us ASAP - this will give us some ideas of numbers. Entry into the competition entitles you to free entry into the show for yourself and one other. If you would like to make a weekend of it there is free camping on site with the rest of us tree folk. Trophies and prizes will be awarded to winners of each class: Novice, Open and Senior. There is a special prize for the combined winner of the Climbing and Chainsaw Events. Simulated Work Climb Two competitors at a time will climb around one big tree against the clock, trying to get to all targets in their half of the tree. Climbers will start at the bottom of the tree and make their way up pre-installed lines to the top target, then down to get as many of the remaining targets around their half of the crown before heading down to the ground to land on the last target and unclipping to stop the clock - as easy as that! Rules: All PPE will be scrutinized prior to the climb and must pass. Any known climbing system may be used. Climbers must be attached to the pre-installed line at all times. To score at each target the climber must strop in before touching the target within the taped markers (this will be clearer on the day). All climbers must maintain the climbing system so as to limit slack in their climbing lines. Points: Each Climber will be awarded points for the number of targets touched and for the speed of the climb. Points will be deducted for any unsafe climbing or failing to strop in at each target point. Timing: It is expected that each climbing pair will take approximately 30 minutes to complete the tree. All climbers must report to the Marshal no later than 0900hrs on each day of the Competition for briefing and kit check. Climbers will then be given a number and start time. Further instruction will be sent with tickets nearer the date. For further details contact Tony at [email protected] Chainsaw Competition Bar & chain change, simulated fell and precision cross cut. The competition will include various disciplines from the world championship for loggers. The competition is intended as nothing more than a bit of fun between chainsaw operators. The events will include: i) Bar and chain. ii) Simulated felling and snedding. iii) Precision cross-cutting. The rules will be as close as possible to those of the world championship for loggers. Copies of these may be obtained by contacting via E Mail either: Andy Campbell or Chalky White [email protected] All candidates must report to the Marshal no later than 0900hrs on each day of the competition for briefing. Further instruction will be sent with tickets nearer the date. We hope that a few people will take part and say again that it is intended as an opportunity for likeminded people to get together and have some fun with the tools of our trade!" Come along, bust out your skills, have a laugh, have a beer & win a prize sponsered by arbtalk.co.uk and arbjobs.com

bump:)

Not my bag baby.

Pays mine mate. And pays it well. I don't think its unusual to spec an individual tree differently from the rest of its fellows. Different consideration = different spec, very orthodox. The rest are not exposed or at risk as a result of the works. What are we trying to achieve? We're trying to a) mitigate risk b) maintain visual amenity c) prolong the SULE (safe useful life expectancy) d) improve habitat The current spec does all of these. If you could provide a different spec that achieved those four aims, lets hear it. Remember we are talking about a technique used in certain circumstances. Specifically woodland areas. As for looking like pikeys. Thats a subjective statement really isn't it? Joe public isn't looking at your cuts to work out whether you're a pikey, he's looking at your truck/dog/headed paperwork. On the subject of stub cuts, that has been suggested and indeed trialled (Lonsdale 1999). The idea being that the tree compartmentailises the stub and shows you where the BPZ occurs. Ask yourself the following question... If you were shown irrefutable evidence tomorrow proving that leaving habitat stub cuts was good for the tree and ecosystem. Would you do it? Answers on a postcard...

huh? I don't getcha.

petzl do black special ops krabs. They're not very good of course, but they're black! You could colour each strand of your blaze in with a pen in that period of time between everyone turning up at the comp in the morning and finally getting in the trees!!!

Sorry, yep just re-read your post. Apologies. You're right of course. I think we might be about to see wound painting come back again... (for certain diseases!) Bit like leeches in medicine!

Sherrill sell it. For those stealth national park rec climbs methinks.

I don't see any hypocrisy. I'll criticise torn collars and ripped stubs on shoddy jobs. This type of pruning when done well does not have a detrimental effect on the branch protection zone and subsequent compartmentalisation. Anyone ever prune a lower branch off and have a builder tell them that "I could have done that"? Ever tried explaining collars/ridges, BPZ, target pruning and CODIT to that builder? He doesn't care. He can't see the difference between your cut that you practiced and educated yourself about and what he would do. He can't see the subtle difference between angles. He doesn't understand that you know that your cut is at best a professional guess at the location of the BPZ. Give that builder a saw though and he might just do it right. Annoying but true. Pikeypruning is the same.

yeah, like people on the edges of buildings! C'mon mate she ain't worth it, there's plenty more pollen in the air. There's so much more to grow for...