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Found myself a mobile stenner :)


Boy English
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One other little trick which helps the band set. Robinson saws had this as standard. When you are happy with the bands tooth protrusion over the edge of your top wheel, mark this with a centre dot nearby. This little mark can be drilled out at a later time and a small brass insert knocked flush into the casting. Presto you will always know your blade is correctly alligned and not runnng back onto the wheel. This was more useful on a re-saw but may prove useful on your bench somewhere.

This came about as HSE required the wheels to be ever more enclosed resulting in the operator not being able to see an important piece of visual information.

Good luck!

codlasher

Edited by codlasher
punctuation!
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I sold one of these recently, exactly the same in full working order. It's still in the yard as hasn't been collected yet. It's being exported and the buyer has asked me to remove the pto gear box and associated belts as they will put an electric motor on it and it won't fit in a container with the gearbox on. I don't know what powers this one but if your interested in it let me know

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Nice looking machine, never seen one of those up close but they do seem to appear on the market occasionally. Ive heard a few people mention one existing locally here but i've no idea if its still around. I'm running the same machine but the static version. Stenner states wheel speed as 600 rpm, or 6600 fpm. I would recommend Lancashire saw company for blades, ~£150 a pop for the 18 gauge swedish steel version, which i think is the one to go for. The wheel condition is very important, they will clean up with the first use but dont run rusty blades on there, if there are blades with it you think are good but a bit rusty then clean them up with a belt sander first (inside at least anyway).

 

That machine should have a crown on the wheels of 40' radius - ~7 thou high but not quite in the middle of the wheel, the high point is about a third way across the face of the wheel from the front edge. Once you get going if you find blades cracking regularly then you will need to check the condition of this crown, which can be done with a straight edge and feeler gauges. Hence no rusty blades as these will eat away the wheels on the front edge and speed the machine towards needing a regrind. That and bearings is about all there is to go wrong with your machine.

 

What have you to drive it? Mine was flat belt drive for quite a while from a tractor, and I used it with a david brown as they have a high speed pto gear so the tractor was just purring along, you dont need a deal of power, mine came with a 25hp electric motor so 50hp diesel would be plenty.

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