Are Stihl 038av's any good?

[flatyre]

Well the 038av arrived today, mixed reviews. Its mostly complete minus the brake band (not an issue) and the chain brake linkage (could be hard to source), it has been fitted with a brand new piston, barrel and plug, unfortunately the new barrel is very light and shiny, which would make me think its cheap Chinese guff. Put some petrol in it and it fired up right away so hopefully i'll get the bits it needs, even with a non oem piston and pot, it should still make a decent backup.

Also got a look at the Rancher, its a white top, built in Sweden not USA, its complete and cosmetically in great shape, no damage to the plastics, handle has no tears in the grip, exhaust is good, and it has a cracking spark, unfortunately the piston is the worst I have seen but the ring is still free, not fused to the piston like usual. I had a look at the bore and after a basic hone, most of the marks came out but far from perfect. So question is what to do with it? put a new piston in and hope the bore doesn't destroy it, buy a full piston and bore kit, or scrap it? I know some a lot of you guys wouldn't waste your time on such an old saw, but I hate scrapping old saws.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Sawchip]

Well the 038av arrived today, mixed reviews. Its mostly complete minus the brake band (not an issue) and the chain brake linkage (could be hard to source), it has been fitted with a brand new piston, barrel and plug, unfortunately the new barrel is very light and shiny, which would make me think its cheap Chinese guff. Put some petrol in it and it fired up right away so hopefully i'll get the bits it needs, even with a non oem piston and pot, it should still make a decent backup.

Also got a look at the Rancher, its a white top, built in Sweden not USA, its complete and cosmetically in great shape, no damage to the plastics, handle has no tears in the grip, exhaust is good, and it has a cracking spark, unfortunately the piston is the worst I have seen but the ring is still free, not fused to the piston like usual. I had a look at the bore and after a basic hone, most of the marks came out but far from perfect. So question is what to do with it? put a new piston in and hope the bore doesn't destroy it, buy a full piston and bore kit, or scrap it? I know some a lot of you guys wouldn't waste your time on such an old saw, but I hate scrapping old saws.

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you can get a decent piston and ring readily ..and the majority of the saw seems not to have need of work ! then in your shoes I would do it.

Think the cylinder is likely to be ok but can't see so can't pass further comment. Usual checks to make sure the bottom end is sound …oh and if you can sort some internals of the muffler out to get shot of some heat build up the new top end will be all the better for it IMO. New carb gaskets (if pos) and carb internals and job should be a good Un.

Edited February 3, 2016 by Sawchip

[Sawchip]

If you can get a decent piston and ring readily ..and the majority of the saw seems not to have need of work ! then in your shoes I would do it.

Think the cylinder is likely to be ok but can't see so can't pass further comment. Usual checks to make sure the bottom end is sound …oh and if you can sort some internals of the muffler out to get shot of some heat build up the new top end will be all the better for it IMO. New carb gaskets (if pos) and carb internals and job should be a good Un.

 

PS.. other side covers are available

[Sawchip]

PS.. other side covers are available

 

PPS..that ring..where is the arrow pointing on the piston top ? The split in the ring isn't facing the exhaust port is it..

[flatyre]

PPS..that ring..where is the arrow pointing on the piston top ? The split in the ring isn't facing the exhaust port is it..

 

it wasn't, I was turning the ring to see if it was free or fused to the piston, will remove the piston tomorrow after seeing what way the arrow is pointing. P.S. when fitting a ring where should the split be? Any time I fitted a new piston and ring I put the split to the side, between the exhaust port and carb inlet.

[geoff]

it wasn't, I was turning the ring to see if it was free or fused to the piston, will remove the piston tomorrow after seeing what way the arrow is pointing. P.S. when fitting a ring where should the split be? Any time I fitted a new piston and ring I put the split to the side, between the exhaust port and carb inlet.

 

Wherever the ring locating pegs dictate, and it might also be prudent to check the ring gap before whilst in the bore at various points, you don't want the ring gap too small or a failure is on the cards.

[Sawchip]

it wasn't, I was turning the ring to see if it was free or fused to the piston, will remove the piston tomorrow after seeing what way the arrow is pointing. P.S. when fitting a ring where should the split be? Any time I fitted a new piston and ring I put the split to the side, between the exhaust port and carb inlet.

 

As Geoff said…there is only ..1 ..place you can put the ring. The tiny round peg in the groove dictates. As long as the arrow on the top of the piston points to the exhaust port ..usually all is well. If its a new ring and piston you are going to fit then just be sure the cylinder is free of any "high" spots of Aluminium transfer. Think if its a original then its Chromium plated so don't get " Jiggy "with a rotary hone.

[flatyre]

Just finished fitting the new piston kit, gave the bore a bit of a hone too. Seems to have good compression and fired up right away, problem is it runs fine for about twenty seconds then dies. Removing the air filter makes no difference. Could this be the fuel filter or something more serious?