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Posted
It uses the same 041 mount (OREGON) as CS-500 (the only difference is tensioner located in clutch cover).

The rim is "small 7" which means it's 18720 for a 3/8 (OREGON)

 

Sure, you can look up analogues from other manufacturers based on this info.

 

Thanks for replying👍

041 mount (OREGON) could you elaborate on this please?I've attached Cannon guide to saw mounts.

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Posted

Yes, just measured - the mounting pins are 8mm, which makes the 8.2mm mount (C1) the most adequate :)

 

Also, tensioner hole centers are 28.5mm apart. Minimum distance between the 2 holes is 21.5mm, maximum - 36mm.

 

Actual tensioner axis offset from center of the bar is 13.5mm

 

Let me know if this sounds hard to understand - I'll just make a couple pictures then.

Posted
Yes, just measured - the mounting pins are 8mm, which makes the 8.2mm mount (C1) the most adequate :)

 

Also, tensioner hole centers are 28.5mm apart. Minimum distance between the 2 holes is 21.5mm, maximum - 36mm.

 

Actual tensioner axis offset from center of the bar is 13.5mm

 

Let me know if this sounds hard to understand - I'll just make a couple pictures then.

 

Cheers for doing that mate. I was considering this saw as my 026's will be retiring soon. Trouble is I have several carving bars with the S1 mount so unless I can get an adapter they won't fit. I know you can get stihl to husky adapters, not sure if you can get an S1 to C1 though.

Posted

Sounds like a lot to measure with all the adapters :) On top of that you'll want to be sure the oiler holes are where they have to be.

It's really easier to bolt on another chainsaw to the existing bars.

Posted

Well I guess it's not viable if my bars won't fit, don't really want to have to buy new bars to fit it at £100/ bar.

I'm wondering if I can just change the bar studs?

Posted (edited)
Well I guess it's not viable if my bars won't fit, don't really want to have to buy new bars to fit it at £100/ bar.

I'm wondering if I can just change the bar studs?

 

Nope. The bar studs are fixed from the inside of oil tank. Technically it means it would take:

a) custom machining of magnesium crankcase and then making the new bigger sized studs.

b) making a couple spacers (internal dia. = stud dia., external dia. = bar slot width) which is effectively simplified version of bar adapter.

 

Seems like it's better to check the oil hole position on your bar(s), measure the oiler slot position on the saw, check if Stihl-Husky adapter actually fits your bar(s) and (if YES)... get that adapter & saw & bars together :D

 

EDIT: this adapter seems to have ALMOST everything right, except it would need some filing/milling in the middle - CS-501SX has additional screw head between the studs https://performanceoutdoorequipment.com/collections/chainsaw-bars-and-chains/products/cannon-cbw-20040-8mm-bar-adapter

Edited by Piston Skirt
Additional info
Posted

Piston you are a font of knowledge👍

I'll see if I can offer up one of my bars at the saw shop and go from there. It wouldn't be a big issue drilling out the spacer. From memory the cannon bar has 2 oiler holes so fingers crossed one of them will line up 😄

Posted

I'll see if I can offer up one of my bars at the saw shop and go from there.

 

Yeah, it would be the best solution. Just a few seconds ago I started wondering if that S1-C1 adapter distance between stud hole centers is the same for Husky and ECHO (!). Visit the saw shop with Your bar - if they carry adapters and the chainsaw you want, it will take just a couple minutes to try it on.

Posted
Yeah, it would be the best solution. Just a few seconds ago I started wondering if that S1-C1 adapter distance between stud hole centers is the same for Husky and ECHO (!). Visit the saw shop with Your bar - if they carry adapters and the chainsaw you want, it will take just a couple minutes to try it on.

 

👍 will do thanks again

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