Friction hitch that can be tied with a bight?

[skinnerm1]

Anyone know of a dependable friction hitch that can be tied on a bight of rope with the hitch being applicable to a rope of the same diameter?

[Gray git]

Couldn't you use the basic 3 knot system?

[skinnerm1]

No but thanks for the quick response. This came up in a next to no gear, multi-pitch sport climbing situation where the tail was not readily available for tying (in this instance) the blake's hitch with. To be clearer I am interested as to whether it is possible to tie the friction hitch itself with a bight of rope onto a taught line.

[daltontrees]

It must be possible, how good it is is a diffferent matter. But in an emergency it won't matter if it's a bit too sticky.

 

Let me think...

[Gray git]

I'd think if you tied a Blakes with a bight it'd work OK but might bind up under a lot of load, how it's dresses and set will have a big affect on it.

[stihlmadasever]

Farrimond friction hitch.look it up

[stihlmadasever]

Only picture i could find

[daltontrees]

Nice knot but there's a 'hitch'. See attched. If it's loaded by the climber's weight at A, the bight will pull out and the whole know will unravel. If you cliped into the bight at B, you'd need some sort of dead weight or stopper knot at A to stop the free end pulling through.

 

But in all other respects it is a prussik knot that can be tied without the free end being available.

[skinnerm1]

Thanks. I'll give it a whirl next week under body weight and see how it holds up

[daltontrees]

I just tried it with a 10.5mm rock climbing rope and a coffee table.

 

Works surprisingly well as a shunt, but only if you pull the free end really hard because when loaded the whole thing bungs up and locks off in a spectacularly effective way that needs to be unset with every pull. The other feature is that the free end has to be loaded somehow, and I managed this easily by marlin hitching it to the krab.

 

If photo is required let me know.

 

Easy easy to tie on living room carpet, could be a real faff on a crag in an emergency with cold hands.