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Grinding down depth gauges on a new ripping chain?


Ghettoblaster
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Big J will be on here in a minute!! Ha ha

 

 

Leave the depth guages alone to start with - see how you go - if it feels and works well stay with it. Taking the depth guages down can make the saw very grabby and over aggressive in the wood and will slow productivity, be hard on the saw and hard on you.

 

 

As the teeth get shorter you can start increasing the amount off the depth guages to maintain the angle of attack up into the tooth...

 

Have a look at BobL posts on Arborist site about depth gauges -

 

eg

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/raker-depth-for-milling.120334/

 

 

:001_smile:

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Thanks Rob, that's what I have done in the past, not touching to start with then reducing to the height of a gauge tool every few sharpens. I use the precision grinder so gauge one raker with a file and repeat the rest on the grinder.

 

I find that some logs cut better than others and wondered if the rakers needed to be dropped a shade to speed up the cut on slow logs.

 

Also thought I may have been missing out on some extra cutting efficiency with a little tweak! Haha

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Thanks Rob, that's what I have done in the past, not touching to start with then reducing to the height of a gauge tool every few sharpens. I use the precision grinder so gauge one raker with a file and repeat the rest on the grinder.

 

I find that some logs cut better than others and wondered if the rakers needed to be dropped a shade to speed up the cut on slow logs.

 

Also thought I may have been missing out on some extra cutting efficiency with a little tweak! Haha

 

 

You are spot on there! You have the benchmark rule of thumb sorted so when you have some time try changing things a little and see how you get on - even better you can thenbfeedback on this thread your findings when you have done so :thumbup:

 

 

On the whole this is unknown territory and there is not much actual facts out there... so any tests you do will be well recieved.

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