Husky 350

[Morgan1936]

My Husky 350 has been used for general farm tree work a few times a year for about 8 years and has performed faultlessly. While sawing a fairly large poplar the saw suddenly stopped and smoke was seen coming from the starter area and it could not be restarted. Suspecting the ignition amp had packed in I tried a new one but it made no difference.

 

Stripping down the engine I could not see any problems, resealed the crankcase cylinder seal and tried to restart. Not even any attempt to start. There is a spark and fuel appears to be getting to the cylinder. I am completely baffled.

 

I will be buying a 365 but would like to keep the 350 for lighter work

 

Any suggestions much appreciated.

[Cut4fun]

Updates if your saw is under serial number. Login

 

Many threads on 350 rebuilds and options of topends. One on stock saws. Login

 

Service Bulletin for 357XP, 359, 353, 346XP

This service bulletin is not new. I thought that there might be some out there who were not aware of it so here it is. If your saw has a black plastic clamp around the intake right next to the cylinder it is applicable to it. If the clamp is of steel construction then you should be ok.

 

B0600023

SERVICE

 

*537 43 88-01*

*compl 537 25 13-02

English 1 (1)

 

SB, 357 XP, 359, 353, 346 XP, 350

Partition wall and clamp for intake system,

2006-03

 

The existing intake system on 357XP, 359,353 and 346XP currently consists of an integrated plastic clamp in the partition wall. As the clamp is made of plastic, there is a risk of deformation. This results in impaired clamping force against the cylinder, which in turn can result in leakage in the intake system. To prevent this from occurring, we have now introduced a metal clamp and a new partition wall.

 

The new partition wall is made up of polyamide with 30 % fibre glass.

The new clamp is a hardened steel clamp. The new material and the design of the clamp reduce the risk of deformation and the subsequent risk of leakage.

 

Full replaceability prevails.

Introduced from serial number:

357XP 061100201

359 061100001

353 061100001

346XP 061100001

 

New part no. Description Excl. part. no. Remark

537 25 13-02 Partition wall, intake, complete New spare part

537 43 88-01 Clamp, intake New spare part

 

Spare part, partition wall, part number 537 25 13-01, has been discontinued and is replaced by part number 537 25 13-02.

[Morgan1936]

Many thanks " Cut4fun" for your most comprehensive reply with excellent links.

 

The Carb linkage is the later version with the steel clip and is OK.

 

I have since checked the compression and it measured only 50 psi so looks like the saw seized and caused the problem.

 

Wonder if its even worth considering replacing the cylinder/piston as the saw is 8 years old.

[Stubby]

It may be possible to salvage the pot , dependent on the damage . If you can remove the aluminum transfer with acid and give it a light hone you can fit an OEM piston or a Metior after market one . Look on spuds " whats on your bench " thread . You must find the why it seized first though or it will do it again . Usually an air leak from somewhere . Crank seals possibly ......

[spudulike]

As Stubby says, you may be able to salvage the cylinder if you are OK with mechanics and are careful. The Nikasil plating is damn hard and tends to be fairly resilient but any deeperscores in the cylinder plating are bad news if above the exhaust port.

 

The cylinder can look a bit bad but often clean up. I have around a 98% success rate!

 

The 350 and all these saws tend to leak around the inlet manifold, there is a tendency for the impulse nipple to split where it pushes in to the cylinder and is hard to see - I have a picture of this on my "Whats on your bench" thread.

 

The seals can go and it will be the clutch side 9 times out of 10!

 

The carb H&L screws should be one turn out on each plus it will be worth checking the fuel line is not holed.

 

You can try an aftermarket P&C but some are a bit hit and miss but make sure the saw is checked for air leaks as something has caused this failure and it needs to be rectified before running again!

[Morgan1936]

Many thanks for all the helpful replies, what a great Forum this is!

 

There is certainly some scoring of the bore and piston but it does not look too bad. The seal between the crankcase and the plastic base looked decidedly rough with evidence of oil tracking across so perhaps this was the reason for the seize. I did notice on the day before the seize that the saw was hunting on full revs, perhaps an indication of an air leak and weak mixture.

 

What is the best sealant to use between crankcase and plastic base, is ordinary silicon sealant adequate or does it need something special?

 

Thanks again.

[spudulike]

Many thanks for all the helpful replies, what a great Forum this is!

 

There is certainly some scoring of the bore and piston but it does not look too bad. The seal between the crankcase and the plastic base looked decidedly rough with evidence of oil tracking across so perhaps this was the reason for the seize. I did notice on the day before the seize that the saw was hunting on full revs, perhaps an indication of an air leak and weak mixture.

 

What is the best sealant to use between crankcase and plastic base, is ordinary silicon sealant adequate or does it need something special?

 

Thanks again.

 

A typical liquid gasket with a high temperature rating, I believe the one I use is up to 270 dec C but isn't anyting special to this application, many swear by Yamabond by Yamaha, I have used Blue Hylomar, a Honda recommended sealent.....just make sure it is petrol resistant and good at high temp, the pressure in the crankcases is pretty low at the best of times compared to the top end!

[Cut4fun]

Last 350 rebuild I did I even seen this for the first time. She must got hot hot hot.

 

[spudulike]

Last 350 rebuild I did I even seen this for the first time. She must got hot hot hot.

 

 

Nice:lol:

[C.J]

Many thanks for all the helpful replies, what a great Forum this is!

 

There is certainly some scoring of the bore and piston but it does not look too bad. The seal between the crankcase and the plastic base looked decidedly rough with evidence of oil tracking across so perhaps this was the reason for the seize. I did notice on the day before the seize that the saw was hunting on full revs, perhaps an indication of an air leak and weak mixture.

 

What is the best sealant to use between crankcase and plastic base, is ordinary silicon sealant adequate or does it need something special?

 

Thanks again.

 

The piston ring may be pinched or stuck and not sealing properly.