Using honing stones on a 242xp chainsaw cylinder?

[wrsni]

no need for wet n dry/acid or any other chemicals,

 

The point is, he's more likely to have a bit of wet and dry lying about than acid or a flexy hone, and if not it'll be cheaper and easier got!!!!!

[spudulike]

Not on a plated cylinder.

 

You can rub it with wet and dry to your fingers hurt and it won't fizz on it.

 

Sorry, you are wrong as in the early days I did a cylinder and tried to get rid of a score with a little too much rubbing and the piston then showed signs exhaust was blowing by the ring!

 

Any semi deep scores are best left and not smooted off - we are talking scores IN TO the cylinder and NOT raised areas of aluminium transfer!

 

Emery paper is damn abrasive and will even rub away Nikasil plating - you don't need to take much off to cause an issue.

 

Not arguing with you for fun but saying what I have found having done many cylinders fom MS200s up to 395XPs/MS880s!

[spudulike]

The point is, he's more likely to have a bit of wet and dry lying about than acid or a flexy hone, and if not it'll be cheaper and easier got!!!!!

 

Agreed on that, you may get away with just wet and dry plus a litle oil if the transfer isn't too much - just depends on how much you have.

 

I have had an 880 with around 0.3mm thick aluminium slab adhered to the cylinder wall - the cyinder looked almost perfect when done:thumbup: I did use acid though and for around two hours!

[wrsni]

Chainsaw plating must be softer then, I actually tried to damage a plated cylinder that I was sending away for replating anyway and gave up after about half an hour. I hadn't even smoothed off the cross-hatching from the factory!!!!

 

I also told him to check first that the deposits were ON TOP of the plating and that if the damage was in to the plating then the cylinder was scrap.

[spudulike]

I was using silicon carbide paper!

[Macpherson]

Yeah, Iv`e deglazed using the flexi-hone for many years, fine on a 4 stroke, but putting it into a 2 stroke cylinder at enough speed to do anything will probably cause excessive wear on the tool and the cyl as it hits the edges of the ports, and to use the expanding 3 hone tool you really need to be able to pass it through the cyl to almost the centre of the stone in each direction in order to get an even honing result, not possible on a saw as you can`t take the head off. so it`s a fingers job, it`s only my opinion.

[peatff]

to use the expanding 3 hone tool you really need to be able to pass it through the cyl to almost the centre of the stone in each direction in order to get an even honing result, not possible on a saw as you can`t take the head off. so it`s a fingers job, it`s only my opinion.

 

I just don't like stones on a plated finish, 240 wet and dry with oil by hand after removing the deposits just to rough it a bit. I don't do a lot so it's not too time consuming.

[Macpherson]

I just don't like stones on a plated finish, 240 wet and dry with oil by hand after removing the deposits just to rough it a bit. I don't do a lot so it's not too time consuming.

 

Yep, agreed, and even on a cast iron cyl it`s real easy to take off too much so unless it`s just a quick glaze bust a mic is probably needed, cheers

[spudulike]

Yep, agreed, and even on a cast iron cyl it`s real easy to take off too much so unless it`s just a quick glaze bust a mic is probably needed, cheers

 

I was never keen on stoned hones but was on the point of using one and had a MS660 in that someone had used one three years earlier - good compression and a bore in good condition and it sort of swayed my judgement.

 

I tried it out hard an a buggered 026 cylinder and it gave it a decent finish without wearing through the plating at all.

 

I agree that they are not great when you have big transfer windowed piston lowers or open transfers but for most, you just want to break the glaze above the exhaust port so the piston rings will wear in much quicker.

I have had very good results using this method and afterwards, the bore is lightly honed as the plating is that hard, the hone just gives it a light abrasion and nothing more.

 

It works for me and has given good reliable long lasting results so something is right!

 

Each man to his own and remember - we are using this tool for 5-10 seconds and not spinning it up on high speed for 5 minutes!

[peatff]

It works for me and has given good reliable long lasting results so something is right!

 

Each man to his own and remember - we are using this tool for 5-10 seconds and not spinning it up on high speed for 5 minutes!

 

That's fair and to be honest I've never actually tried one on a plated bore just because I've not needed to. I know a friend's lad who used one on his Bultaco cylinder and needed a rebore after he'd done it as he was a bit heavy handed but that was not a plated bore and it did go all the way through. I use a medium one on steel bores as it's what I have and I have made a DIY flapwheel with a piece of wet and dry and a split dowel in a slow drill.