New cylinder in husky 455 rancher

[spudulike]

Got the cylinder and piston changed so many thanks for the encouragement to do that and especially to adw for the workshop manual which was invaluable. It's the first time I've ever done that much work to the guts of the engine so I was well chuffed when it spluttered into life! Could of questions:

 

1. The bolts on the silencer came loose a couple of times when I was running it yesterday. Do they need some thread lock, just done up tighter or something else?

 

2. It's often cutting out when left to drop to an idle. Is this just a carburetor adjustment and if so how would I got about doing that?

 

Thanks

 

The muffler coming loose, you can use threadlock but beware that it may be damn near impossible to remove once hardened, you could try a little superglue and lock them down a little harder, lock washers or something similar - Once they get a little rusty, nothing will shift them.

 

The cutting out is most likely the carb settings, you may have limit screws on your carb that makes adjustment more difficult but you could try: -

 

1) Just increase the idle speed a little - the chain should NOT be spinning and there should be no ringing from the clutch catching the drum.

2)To adjust the L screw (nearest the cylinder), start the saw, turn the L screw clockwise and the revs will rise to a peak and then falter, at this point, turn the screw back out until the highest point is reached and keep going until the engine note sounds a little uneven and "poppy". Adjust the idle and then try this.

 

You may not be able to get full adjustment because of the limiters but that is how you adjust the L (low speed) idle screw.

[adw]

The 455 will have anti tamper screws on the carb, there is a special tool to adjust these pt no. 530035560

[spudulike]

The 455 will have anti tamper screws on the carb, there is a special tool to adjust these pt no. 530035560

 

If they are the plastic ones, I either grind the tabs or remove them completely but yours has a sprung loaded barrel around the adjuster that needs to be pushed in to make adjustment beyond the limited rotation.

 

I made a tool out of a Stihl screwdriver and a crimp connector plastic surround glued to the screwdriver....a bit Heath Robinson but it works reasonably well! All you need is a thin tube that fits in to the sprung barrel and a small flat head screwdriver:thumbup:

 

.......or buy the correct tool:blushing:

[adw]

pretty sure the needles had a spline , not the sprung loaded ones, even if they are sprung loaded there is still a spline under neath

[spudulike]

pretty sure the needles had a spline , not the sprung loaded ones, even if they are sprung loaded there is still a spline under neath

 

I looked at the IPL but there may be different versions of the same model so never a foregone conclusion!