New cylinder in husky 455 rancher

[davey_b]

Just dropped in my saw (husky 455 rancher) at my local service guy as it's not starting and he's had a quick look at it and told me that it's likely that it'll need a new cylinder which isn't economical and I'd be better buying a new saw. Pretty pissed off as I bought a husky five years ago thinking if I maintain it it would last me a long time. I think it might have been misfueled by someone I lent it to, last time I do that.

 

Anyway, just wondering how difficult a job this is to do myself? I'm pretty handy DIYer and tackle most things. If there's a guide to how to do this somewhere that would be great. Or is it just too hard for me to do?

 

Thanks

 

Dave

[peatff]

If the piston is still moving it's not too bad and you might get away with just a piston and rings if the cylinder will clean up. Take it to bits and have a look, you have nothing to lose. Watch a few youtube videos they will give you an idea what you are looking at doing.

[davey_b]

If the piston is still moving it's not too bad and you might get away with just a piston and rings if the cylinder will clean up. Take it to bits and have a look, you have nothing to lose. Watch a few youtube videos they will give you an idea what you are looking at doing.

 

Great, thanks. The piston is still moving it's just that there is no compression there, think it's scored pretty bad.

 

Found this page: How to rebuild replace and install a cylinder and piston your chainsaw

 

Looks doable.

[spudulike]

If you go through my "what's on your bench" thread, you will find many a discussion on salvaging cylinders and the best pistons to use.

 

I always try to save the cylinder and have around a 98% success rate. The piston is best to be Meteor as they have near OEM manufacturing with Caber rings as used by many OEM engine manufacturers.

 

Make sure the piston goes in the right way round, the arrow on the piston crown points toward the exhaust port.

 

The bore can be lightly honed and it helps break the glaze and beds the piston on faster. Don't go too mad as you will wear the plating off the bore and font use a hone to take the transfer off, use chemicals such as acid of strong alkaline solution.

[davey_b]

If you go through my "what's on your bench" thread, you will find many a discussion on salvaging cylinders and the best pistons to use.

 

I always try to save the cylinder and have around a 98% success rate. The piston is best to be Meteor as they have near OEM manufacturing with Caber rings as used by many OEM engine manufacturers.

 

Make sure the piston goes in the right way round, the arrow on the piston crown points toward the exhaust port.

 

The bore can be lightly honed and it helps break the glaze and beds the piston on faster. Don't go too mad as you will wear the plating off the bore and font use a hone to take the transfer off, use chemicals such as acid of strong alkaline solution.

 

Many thanks, I might put some questions up here over the next few days for some help and so other people can refer to it in the future.

[davey_b]

Am I right in thinking this is the correct kit: Chainsaw Accessories - Husqvarna 455 Cylinder & Piston Assembly

 

Would I need anything else like gaskets etc. or is that everything?

[peatff]

I can't see a little end bearing in there and you will need a base gasket and possibly an exhaust gasket. Ask the supplier what is in the kit and order the rest while you are at it. It's not good if you are stood for parts and they are not expensive.

Edited February 3, 2015 by peatff

[adw]

There is no base gasket on the 455, there are two rubber seals which could be re used, are you sure this thing has seized? they are quite prone to gumming the ring in ( due to the back of the piston running very cool due to the X torq cylinder ) i can mail you a workshop manual if you wish, the design of the saw means the crank is sanwiched between the composit crankcase and the cylinder base with the bolts up through the bottom.

[davey_b]

There is no base gasket on the 455, there are two rubber seals which could be re used, are you sure this thing has seized? they are quite prone to gumming the ring in ( due to the back of the piston running very cool due to the X torq cylinder ) i can mail you a workshop manual if you wish, the design of the saw means the crank is sanwiched between the composit crankcase and the cylinder base with the bolts up through the bottom.

 

Parts ordered and I'll get onto it at the weekend if they stuff's here.

 

The cylinder and piston is scored and so there's not pressure in it.

 

Workshop manual would be great! Could you email it or would it be post? Direct message me if you want either email address or postal address.

 

Many thanks

 

Dave

[davey_b]

Got the cylinder and piston changed so many thanks for the encouragement to do that and especially to adw for the workshop manual which was invaluable. It's the first time I've ever done that much work to the guts of the engine so I was well chuffed when it spluttered into life! Could of questions:

 

1. The bolts on the silencer came loose a couple of times when I was running it yesterday. Do they need some thread lock, just done up tighter or something else?

 

2. It's often cutting out when left to drop to an idle. Is this just a carburetor adjustment and if so how would I got about doing that?

 

Thanks