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What saw to go for?


Eddt
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Hi,

I am looking to set myself up with an alaskan mill and I would like some advice on saw choice. I have been looking at the Stihl ms661, is this saw capable of milling most or is it worth spending the extra for the ms880? Are there any husquvarna options? Any other advice on equipment needed to get started. Cheers

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Whereabouts in South Wales, I have both and an Alaskan if you want to have a go?

I bought a 3' mill to go with the 660 and then had to buy a longer rail set and an 880:sneaky2:, a 660 on 36" will mill 29" with dogs on, I'm doing 43" with a 48" 880.

 

Regards,

 

Steve.

 

Edit - oh and get a winch:thumbup1:

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If you need the dogs, keep them. If you don't, take them off and gain 2" of useable bar. If you can afford the 880, then buy it; you can always fit smaller bars. On the other hand, the 661 could be an almost everyday saw too. Whereas the bigger saw will only come out, if you're cutting really big stuff or milling.

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Also, get a Mini Mill at the same time if you can stretch to it. Good for ripping smaller boards, posts and smaller beams. And as said, a hand winch with pulley & HMS crab. Far easier to winch the saw through the cut, than have to push it. You get a more even finish and less vibes too.

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Thanks for the advice guys, im based in Neath South Wales, trying them out maybe an idea, do you mill often? I am keen to produce things out of the timber rather than waste it or cut it up for fire wood. I have only used a band mill and a Logsol in the past never an alaskan. The 880 is a large saw, but seems the one to go for, i probably will only be using the saw for the milling as I work as a self employed countryside ranger/ woodland manager so i don't think i will ever have the need for such a large saw for felling. Getting the winch does seem the way to go, are the winches the ones that come in the kits off Rob D. Cheers

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MS880.

 

You'll spend a long time chainsaw milling - it's a time consuming activity. With any other chainsaw you'll spend all that time thinking about how much quicker it would be with an 880.

 

That being said, chainsaw milling with an 880 is still time consuming enough, and you'll probably spend that time wishing you had the bandmill back again!

 

I found that an MS880 on a 42" bar was ideal for one man chainsaw milling operations. A 48" bar is unnecessary in most situations (remember you still have to move the boards you produce) and requires an auxiliary oiler. On a 42", it's not necessary.

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MS880.

 

You'll spend a long time chainsaw milling - it's a time consuming activity. With any other chainsaw you'll spend all that time thinking about how much quicker it would be with an 880.

 

That being said, chainsaw milling with an 880 is still time consuming enough, and you'll probably spend that time wishing you had the bandmill back again!

 

I found that an MS880 on a 42" bar was ideal for one man chainsaw milling operations. A 48" bar is unnecessary in most situations (remember you still have to move the boards you produce) and requires an auxiliary oiler. On a 42", it's not necessary.

 

Big J, do you use a .404 chain or is it possible to run the 880 with 3/8th ' s (change sprocket and use appropriate bar/chain)?

 

Just wondering, as you could save that little extra timber from a smaller kerf.... also maybe faster chain speed (probably sharpening more often)

 

Just a few thoughts!!!!

 

P.s. seriously starting to regret selling my 088!!!!!

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