What do you recommend to coat these with?

[TTP]

Do you have any technique to drying them out without splitting?

 

I've tried the making chopping boards but used a cross section of the log and 2 of the 4 I made have now split.

 

The only technique I came up with was to keep them wet for 4-6 months while the sap left them.

 

I'm curious to know if there is a faster way?

 

 

 

Or is the split a function of the cross section cut rather than cutting along the grain?

 

 

I don't have a technique as this is my first time and in fact new to milling altogether, the wood has at least been down for about 3 months as I've only just got round to saving it from the firewood pile. The wood still feels damp to touch so I've stacked it with spacers and a heavy weight on top to try and stop any warping. Unfortunately I think it's a waiting game to get quality items.

[Luddite]

I'd be curious to know how this pans out.

The log I used was cut in the summer so less than ideal as it would appear winter cut would be better as most of the professional millers use this time of year to process wood with minimal splits.

I understand from a cabinet maker that a cross section cut of the logs makes the knives stay sharper for longer (when cutting on the board). This is apparently because it is easier on the blade due to the direction of the grain not blunting the knives.

However, the photos you provided certainly illustrate a product that shows the grain to the best advantage and if you are looking to sell, I suspect you would get top dollar for them.

Hope it goes well.

[Mike Dempsey]

There is every chance that these boards will split I'm afraid particularly if they are beech which is notorious for splitting. In order to minimise the risk of splitting you need to seal the ends with a waxy sealer (the end and up to one inch length od each board.) They need to have 1/2 inch wooden stickers put between the boards in order to let the air circulate around the wood. A weight should be put on top to stop the wood warping. The boards should be put outside where they are in a sheltered spot and the rain kept off them.

As for chopping boards getting an oil finish on them, whatever you do, do not put olive oil or vegetable oil on them. They don't sink in far and end up sitting on the surface going rancid. I don't always oil my chopping boards but if I do I use the chopping board oil made by Liberon.

Some people on here use a borax solution to stop the boards going mouldy but for chopping boards I wouldn't use this.

The secret to having a lot of chopping boards is using long boards which will only have small splits possibly at either end and when that is dry cutting them up into chopping boards of the required length.

[grainfoot]

I use food grade mineral oil fo chopping boards. Veg/olive oil may go rancid if not used and re coated regularly. Tung oil not sure but may affect people with nut allergy.

[Ghettoblaster]

The best oil for food items is mineral oil or boiled Walnut oil. Walnut oil is supposed to 'set' and harden the wood, mineral oil stays 'wet' and needs to be applied more regularly. You can also advise to wash the chopping boards with a bit of salt and half a lemon or lime rather than fairy liquid and hot water.

Make sure any Walnut oil has been heat treated to denature the proteins that cause the allergic reaction to nuts!