Husqvarna fuel tank breather valve Hissing

[enrieb]

I have a Husqvarna 371 that was starting ok, but then cutting out after a few minuets, I tried adjusting the carb, it seemed to be running ok, but then the next day the same thing was happening. Carb adjust again, but then when it cut out I heard a Hissing Sound after the engine had stopped.

 

I did some searching on the internet and came up with a Blocked Fuel Tank Valve. Theres not a lot of info about how to get to it. But I managed to find a diagrams and a forum here's what they said… I'll put the info here incase it's useful to anyone.

 

 

 

"most likely you will have to undo the motor mounts from the engine to the tank to make it easy to get at the vent, sure if you jam something in between the tank and crankcase and wedge the two apart you can get to the vent but have seen guys break the mounts and some even break the tank where it mounts to the tank so now you need a new tank , you only need about an inch or so of room to get at the vent"

 

"Alot of the vents have a white stone appearance cover that is on the out side of the vent , if you use a wood screw and screw it into the white part then pull on it , it will come out of the tank . under it most have a long plastic vent"

 

"I've removed the tank vents on my Husky 55 and 385 XP using a pair of bent, long needle nose pliers. They push out pretty easily, (from inside the tank). You can check if they still work by running a little compressed air into the tube end. If you can't hear it coming out the white filter end, it's plugged. They are pretty cheap in any case, so change it if you think it's bad."

 

"the plastic long vent piece is easy to get out most times , just stick a slot screwdriver that is a touch smaller than the hole in the vent and cock the screwdriver sideways so it grabs a hold of the vent and pull out and most times the vent pops out, the wood screw is to get that white stone part they put in the saw after the vent tube was put in "

 

 

Husqvarna 257 tank vent

 

Husqvarna 371 Parts List and Diagram - (1996-09) : eReplacementParts.com

 

 

Now, my question is, I've removed the Fuel Tank Valve using the wood screw method. I can blow air through the valve, so it's no longer blocked, but i've damaged the white plastic plug that went in the end of the valve.

 

Will I need a new valve, or will it be ok without the white plastic plug?

 

I could put it back it, but it doesn't look too good.

[spudulike]

I have a Husqvarna 371 that was starting ok, but then cutting out after a few minuets, I tried adjusting the carb, it seemed to be running ok, but then the next day the same thing was happening. Carb adjust again, but then when it cut out I heard a Hissing Sound after the engine had stopped.

 

I did some searching on the internet and came up with a Blocked Fuel Tank Valve. Theres not a lot of info about how to get to it. But I managed to find a diagrams and a forum here's what they said… I'll put the info here incase it's useful to anyone.

 

 

 

"most likely you will have to undo the motor mounts from the engine to the tank to make it easy to get at the vent, sure if you jam something in between the tank and crankcase and wedge the two apart you can get to the vent but have seen guys break the mounts and some even break the tank where it mounts to the tank so now you need a new tank , you only need about an inch or so of room to get at the vent"

 

"Alot of the vents have a white stone appearance cover that is on the out side of the vent , if you use a wood screw and screw it into the white part then pull on it , it will come out of the tank . under it most have a long plastic vent"

 

"I've removed the tank vents on my Husky 55 and 385 XP using a pair of bent, long needle nose pliers. They push out pretty easily, (from inside the tank). You can check if they still work by running a little compressed air into the tube end. If you can't hear it coming out the white filter end, it's plugged. They are pretty cheap in any case, so change it if you think it's bad."

 

"the plastic long vent piece is easy to get out most times , just stick a slot screwdriver that is a touch smaller than the hole in the vent and cock the screwdriver sideways so it grabs a hold of the vent and pull out and most times the vent pops out, the wood screw is to get that white stone part they put in the saw after the vent tube was put in "

 

 

Husqvarna 257 tank vent

 

Husqvarna 371 Parts List and Diagram - (1996-09) : eReplacementParts.com

 

 

Now, my question is, I've removed the Fuel Tank Valve using the wood screw method. I can blow air through the valve, so it's no longer blocked, but i've damaged the white plastic plug that went in the end of the valve.

 

Will I need a new valve, or will it be ok without the white plastic plug?

 

I could put it back it, but it doesn't look too good.

 

 

The white plasic plug is the thing that stops the fuel flowing out if the tank is filled right up to the top. The saw will run without it but you may well get fuel leakage if the tank is over filled.

 

The simplest thing to do is get some brake cleaner/carb cleaner or even WD40 over it and see if this helps. It may just have a good layer of crud over it and this has stopped the airflow.

 

Other than that, pull it out and either clean it if OK or replace.

 

You may be able to knock it out by pushing out the grey pipe inside the fuel tank but it can be more tricky.

 

The classic way to fault find these sort of issues is to run the saw with the fuel tank cap slightly loose and see if this helps.The fuel tan will need to be half full and cut at an angle otherwise you will smell of Eau de Petrol:001_rolleyes:

 

The 372 did have an updated breather, it may well fit the tank as both saws were pretty much identical.

[adw]

For the cost of it i would replace the white plug pt no. 506300401, especialy as you have used a screw to remove it, as was said you can fit the 372 valve, the only real difference is it has a green elbow on and a ruber tube up into the carb area where there is a nipple to push it onto, the 371 will not have this nipple so stay with the early type, as was said you should have just slackened the cap to see if that improved things before removing the valve, new valves will weep for a while until they get fully soaked and some saw dust around them, so dont be worried if you see a small weep.

[enrieb]

Ok, thanks for the advice.

 

The saw is running fine now (even without the white plug) but I will definitely replace the tank breather with a new one.