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Knut users


Lancstree
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I've recently been using a knut friction hitch and climbing hand-over-hand leaving only a little slack then advancing the hitch simply by pulling the tail end up. Once tied, set and dressed, I've tested how the knot grabs and arrests the fall should I let go and it works each time because, unlike the VT the knot maintains contact with the climbing rope and doesn't require manipulation or re-dressing.

 

The only disadvantage that I've found to this method is that the knut can over tighten if used in this way for a period of time, making it difficult to advance. Does anyone understand the working of the knut enough to know how the over-tightening comes about? I'm guessing it could be a case of wear on the friction cord.

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I'm using 10mm silverstreak and I've also tried it with marlow boa and beal regate. When I dress it I make sure that the legs are of equal length. 4 wraps leaving 3 coils at the top and the crossed bits below. The picture is from when I was playing around with it but I use a much shorter hitch now for branch walk returns. I've also tried it with a petzl fixe pulley on between the legs of the hitch and it won't allow the knut to function.

moto_0177.jpg.22f1e8b405e21fc8abfc7e6cae70c74e.jpg

Edited by Lancstree
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When you take the half hitch with one leg which in turn clamps the other leg you can set this either closer to the coils which will make the hitch grab very reliably but can bind the coils. The bigger the space between the half hitch and coils the easier the coils will break, this I think is becasue as you advance the hitch the half hitch part moves towards the coils and loosens them off, the shorter the distance it travels the less it will loosen the coils.

It also is the same when you descend the bigger the gap as the coils move down there is greater play and they loosen easier.

 

Other factors though like type of cord, the length eye to eye and wether your using a pulley type cambium saver also play a part.

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Used it for a couple of years, works well but have to really tune ropes and prussik cord, i also ran shorter tails than your picture, also i dropped tails either side and put swing cheek in there, i have used it on a hitchclimber with stitchd eye ocean polyester, does have a better grab factor at times to the good ol VT, go play away and go mad. Also best practice, reduction in friction, get that cambium saver out of the bottom of the bag, even if you stick the pulley on that

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I run a shorter tail than the pic too. I've tried increasing the distance between the half hitch and the coils in the last couple of days and it works a treat - for a bit; it seems to work closer together again after a short while. Going to keep playing around with it as I really like it, though I suppose everything has its limitations

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  • 6 months later...

Bump. I've done a slight modification that would be better described with a picture but not got one yet. What I have done is simple: attached a releasable zip-tie around the half hitch part of the knut to the krab which prevents this from bunching up near the coils and over tightening. I've tried this out for a few days and found it self tends really well and grips just as reliably.

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