Sheared Flywheel Key Hedgecutter

[mikerecike]

Anybody ever ever cut a groove in one of these flywheels with integral key? Its a flymo/mcculloch/electrolux/husky job.

Part no. Is FLY5382437738.Cant even seem to find one for sale.

Its really obscene that if it shears you buy a new flywheel at silly money when with the old style you'd replace the key for a quid.

Its my own and i just wonder how you go about cutting that groove in the flywheel.

 

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Arbtalk mobile app

[spudulike]

This is a nice problem, forget cutting a new slot, you need to lock the crank in place with whatever method you like, a screw in piston stop is best, mark the crank and flywheel with where the slot is.

 

You now have a few methods to use - you can smear epoxy, bearing lock or grindingpaste on the crank and then slide the flywheel on, knock it down with a mallet and do up the nut as hard as you can and some more - I have done this and it does work.

 

Fortunately, the ignition timing isn't too critical on hedge trimmers, if you have atiming wheel, you can use it to ensure crank to flywheel allignment is 100% but you should be able to get away with the above - get creative:thumbup:

[slim reaper]

Ive cut them on straight bores but I guess you would have to clamp the FL on a lathe face plate with wedges under it so the taper is parallel with with the bed .

 

Edit: Like this vid but clamped at an angle equal to the taper

Edited June 27, 2014 by slim reaper

[mikerecike]

This is a nice problem, forget cutting a new slot, you need to lock the crank in place with whatever method you like, a screw in piston stop is best, mark the crank and flywheel with where the slot is.

 

You now have a few methods to use - you can smear epoxy, bearing lock or grindingpaste on the crank and then slide the flywheel on, knock it down with a mallet and do up the nut as hard as you can and some more - I have done this and it does work.

 

Fortunately, the ignition timing isn't too critical on hedge trimmers, if you have atiming wheel, you can use it to ensure crank to flywheel allignment is 100% but you should be able to get away with the above - get creative:thumbup:

 

Done! Running great. Top advice. Cheers Spud.Much appreciated.:thumbup::thumbup:

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Arbtalk mobile app

Edited June 28, 2014 by mikerecike

[mikerecike]

Ive cut them on straight bores but I guess you would have to clamp the FL on a lathe face plate with wedges under it so the taper is parallel with with the bed .

 

Edit: Like this vid but clamped at an angle equal to the taper

 

Thanks Slim.Appreciated.

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Arbtalk mobile app

[spudulike]

Done! Running great. Top advice. Cheers Spud.Much appreciated.:thumbup::thumbup:

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Arbtalk mobile app

 

No worries, glad the advice was of help:thumbup:

[mikerecike]

One thing I can't work out....I have another trimmer with identical problem.Sheared key...have done same procedure as above and probably havent lined key line and mark where key was on flywheel up accurately enough. 2 issues....unburnt fuel being pushed out of exhaust (does that mean timing retarded?) and its very stiff and lumpy to pull over....I would have thought the timing working against the piston would only come into play when the plug actually sparked. This is really tough to pull over with plug cap removed.Can a sheared key affect pull over even without spark???

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Arbtalk mobile app

[spudulike]

One thing I can't work out....I have another trimmer with identical problem.Sheared key...have done same procedure as above and probably havent lined key line and mark where key was on flywheel up accurately enough. 2 issues....unburnt fuel being pushed out of exhaust (does that mean timing retarded?) and its very stiff and lumpy to pull over....I would have thought the timing working against the piston would only come into play when the plug actually sparked. This is really tough to pull over with plug cap removed.Can a sheared key affect pull over even without spark???

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Arbtalk mobile app

 

With the plug cap REMOVED, the timing will make no difference, if you had this when starting, it is a sign of advanced timing i.e. the spark is happening too early - I get a bit of this on saws I have changed the timing advance on and it can hurt.

 

You must have somethng else coming in to play - perhaps the coil is rubbing on th eflywheel or the clutch is catching:confused1:

[mikerecike]

Ok.No cap no timing in the equation.something mechanical to look for then.Good.And the fuel from exhaust when running Is that retarded or something else? I remember with the recoil off i tried turning the crank by hand seemed like mega compression that bounced back very hard.Maybe i should get the exhaust off and check for carbon build up/blockage?

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Arbtalk mobile app

[mikerecike]

Piston was crusty with carbon and crankcase had a fair amount of the orginal gasket maker stuck inside. Cleaned the piston and dremelled off what seemed like superfluous casting ridges at base of cylinder and the compression has come down to an acceptable level.Cheers folks.

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Arbtalk mobile app