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346xp stalling??


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As above really, anyone know of any common faults?

Many thanks

 

PC

 

Idle too low

L srew too lean/too rich

Split fuel line

Blocked tank breather

Leaking inlet manifold

Leaking decomp

Crap in the carb gauze strainer

Too large coil to flywheel gap

Dodgy spark plug or cap

Blocked fuel filter

Clutch catching/binding on the drum

Needle bearingon clutch buggered

 

The most likely are carb issues followed by the inlet manifold and blocked tank breather

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Idle too low

L srew too lean/too rich

Split fuel line

Blocked tank breather

Leaking inlet manifold

Leaking decomp

Crap in the carb gauze strainer

Too large coil to flywheel gap

Dodgy spark plug or cap

Blocked fuel filter

Clutch catching/binding on the drum

Needle bearingon clutch buggered

 

The most likely are carb issues followed by the inlet manifold and blocked tank breather

 

We have same saw, same symptoms. Just noticed inlet manifold from carb not correctly aligned with flange on barrell after re-assembling and the snap clip can be tricky to close.

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We have same saw, same symptoms. Just noticed inlet manifold from carb not correctly aligned with flange on barrell after re-assembling and the snap clip can be tricky to close.

 

I have just had that on a seized 357XP, it distorted the impulse connector on the inlet manifold causing an airleak.

 

The plastic clip was replaced with the metal one that can be a bit of a pig to fit and this area can be a real issue with air leaks - I have learnt a few tricks:thumbup:

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I have just had that on a seized 357XP, it distorted the impulse connector on the inlet manifold causing an airleak.

 

The plastic clip was replaced with the metal one that can be a bit of a pig to fit and this area can be a real issue with air leaks - I have learnt a few tricks:thumbup:

 

So the black plastic connector is called that - led to too much air too little fuel. I guess many of us have suffered similar failures and not realised it.

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So the black plastic connector is called that - led to too much air too little fuel. I guess many of us have suffered similar failures and not realised it.

 

The way the rubber and plastic parts work are the rubber manifold pushes over the cylinder inlet connection, the impulse connector is part of this and pushes in to the impulse hole.

 

The plastic part then pushes on to the rubber part to provide a support and retaining function - the clamp around the outer part seals the edges whilst the plastic part gets a retaining pushing effect from its location in to a cut out on the upper crankcase cut out.

 

The issues I have had have been around the impulse and around the outer clamp and will only be noticed by pressure and vacuum testing - predominantly with pressure testing at 10psi.

 

Old manifolds appear to shrink and cause issues - I have learnt of a couple of tricks in this area that resolve this though:thumbup:

 

TBH - I don't like this design but have learnt to live with it as I like the range of saws!

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