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My old 372 did the same after it was thrown/dropped from a height.. Spud made a brace that worked for a while.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk

 

You beat me to it Matty - that is a high stress point, I put a metal plate over it and used JB weld, pins and countersunk bolts and it still didn't hold - we fitted new cases in the end:thumbup:

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Lumiweld is not aluminium it is a brazing rod for aluminium but it will work on pot metal and zinc based alloys as well as it has a much lower melting point than aluminium.

 

Several years ago I sucessfully used aluminium braze a few times on manifolds etc with oxy actelene. It gives a concetrated hot flame so betterr than the best blow lamp. Same would apply with TIG. Not used lumiweld but it sound your best bet. I would price a new case though, I expect you will probably need it.

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I suspect your probably right but I have a lumiweld kit sitting looking at me so nothing ventured nothing gained :biggrin: results will follow..

 

I gas weld and mig but lumiweld is a different process to welding. Don't try to use the flame to melt the rod or it will just run off into the distance. You have to heat the piece till it melts the rod when you touch it on the surface of the repair more like soldering.

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Lumiweld is not aluminium it is a brazing rod for aluminium but it will work on pot metal and zinc based alloys as well as it has a much lower melting point than aluminium.

Lumiweld is not aluminium it is a brazing rod for aluminium but it will work on pot metal and zinc based alloys as well as it has a much lower melting point than aluminium.

 

The difference in the melting points is the important bit here so keep a good control of the flame when you're doing it. It might be worth getting an old saw out of the scrap bin it your local dealer/workshop and have a few practice runs before doing the real thing. Brazing is to odd metals like cast iron, brass, copper and the stuff your saw is made of as solder is to copper, brass mild steel and lots of other stuff. The trick is to heat the base metal, in this instance it's your saw, so when you then heat the brazing rod till it melts it will flow onto the pre-heated base then cool together and set. As mentioned earlier, all surfaces MUST be clean of anything that will contaminate the joint.

TIG welding is a good alternative as it fuses the joint using mostly its own material plus a little filler rod where necessary. Could be worthwhile getting some quotes and weighing them against a new or second hand part though.

There are times when swearing out loud is perfectly acceptable and breaking your saw is definitely one such occasion. Good luck with it.

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Most metal saw cases (including that one) are magnesium, not aluminum.

 

Is that a factor here?

 

It is if it catches fire in your workshop. Magnesium fires are difficult to put out.Special class D estinguisher. Not sure what the make up of the alloy would be or if it is a risk but I think I would be inclined to get a quote from a specialist TIG welder as suggested by arbandy

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It's aluminium with magnesium content, other aluminium ingredient is silicon. Tig rods are either 4043 or 5356 for either flavour. I've tig welded bits for my scooter and the aluminium is of an indeterminate make up but welded o.k. with 5356 rods.

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Most metal saw cases (including that one) are magnesium, not aluminum.

 

Is that a factor here?

the kit is suitable for magnesium alloys :thumbup1:

 

 

 

A STAINLESS STEEL wire brush is a must!

Most normal brushes are mild steel and this will just contaminate the surface and create a black residue.

 

they kit comes with one :thumbup1: watched videos of similar product seems fairly effective im no stranger to brazing so gonna give it a bash, anyone interested here's technowelds version

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