Husqvarna 338xpt starting problem help needed

[Eddy_t]

Oh boy, you're gonna have fun cleaning that carb out!

If there's excess fuel in the muffler and air box, it's a stuck needle valve, which will require removing the carb, cleaning it out (2 easy bits) and reinstalling (hard). The saw may also need a tune up, and a compression check is advisable.

It's most likely to just be a tiny piece of sawdust that's causing the problem by holding the valve open, which allows constant flow of fuel through the carb, and given the fuel tank pressurises when the fuel is warmed from the crank heat or sloshed around, it forces a fair amount through, similar to running with a choke on constantly.

 

 

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[jwilson]

Oh boy, you're gonna have fun cleaning that carb out!

If there's excess fuel in the muffler and air box, it's a stuck needle valve, which will require removing the carb, cleaning it out (2 easy bits) and reinstalling (hard). The saw may also need a tune up, and a compression check is advisable.

It's most likely to just be a tiny piece of sawdust that's causing the problem by holding the valve open, which allows constant flow of fuel through the carb, and given the fuel tank pressurises when the fuel is warmed from the crank heat or sloshed around, it forces a fair amount through, similar to running with a choke on constantly.

 

 

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Thats top draw help , thx alot

[L30hub]

If it starts fine cold. But doesn't warm. Does it start when it's cooled back down? If so... Try a new plug simple first, if still the same the ignition module is breaking down when it's hot. If you still have a present spark when it does cut out, it's obviously a fuel related issue, remember to keep it simple if it becomes a fuel related issue, take off the carburettor, clean it out using brake and parts cleaner or carb cleaner, if you get access try an ultrasonic carb clean. Then rebuild with the parts that came out and try that.

[jwilson]

If it starts fine cold. But doesn't warm. Does it start when it's cooled back down? If so... Try a new plug simple first, if still the same the ignition module is breaking down when it's hot. If you still have a present spark when it does cut out, it's obviously a fuel related issue, remember to keep it simple if it becomes a fuel related issue, take off the carburettor, clean it out using brake and parts cleaner or carb cleaner, if you get access try an ultrasonic carb clean. Then rebuild with the parts that came out and try that.

 

Has got a brand new plug in it as i thought the same

[L30hub]

Ignition module buddy! What ever you do don't buy non genuine parts

[jwilson]

Looks like im gonna give the engine a good clean then if that dont solve it go to ignition module

[Ray1]

Ive just read the the post about it starting, must have missed it first time. If it does start first thing in a morning and then refuses to start when its got warm, its probably had a light seizure.

[jwilson]

Ive just read the the post about it starting, must have missed it first time. If it does start first thing in a morning and then refuses to start when its got warm, its probably had a light seizure.

 

Forgot to mention the pullstart starts gets stuck out after a while aswell and retracts in stages asif getting caught up even tho ive checked the tension

[Stubby]

Ive just read the the post about it starting, must have missed it first time. If it does start first thing in a morning and then refuses to start when its got warm, its probably had a light seizure.

 

I would go with this one . Not enough compression when it gets warm . Check piston through exhaust port if you haven't yet .

[jwilson]

I would go with this one . Not enough compression when it gets warm . Check piston through exhaust port if you haven't yet .

 

Ok will do