Alaskan vertical mini mill ~ making a runner

[SteveA]

Ordered an Alaskan Small Log Mill & the vertical Mini Mill from Rob at Chainsawbars ? chainsaw chains, chainsaw bars and chainsaw accessories ....(received very fast & with a couple of very useful freebie goody surprises!, Thanks Rob, top man!!.... and also thanks for your advice).

 

I'm looking at making the guide runner for the vertical log mill to run along; the instructions suggest using a 4" by 6" length of wood.

 

But I've got an aluminium plastering feather edge and wondered if anyone has tried using one instead of the wooden beam?.... should be much lighter to carry into the woods, and possibly a little smoother to push the mill across. It's not 4" wide but it does fit the width of the mill okay.

 

Any thoughts on using the aluminium feather edge? Mines about 6ft in length. Cheers, Steve

 

Premium Quality Levels, Feather Edges, Eagle Grip, Box Sections & Rules

[Bob Slade]

Hi Steve, if you check the length of the mini-mill rails you will find that each one is 2 foot long. my set up is based on an 8 ft by 6x2 inch plank. if you screw 4 of the rails to the plank and then cut the plank in half you will have 2 four foot planks that you can use on any length of tree simply by leap frogging the planks.

[SteveA]

Hi Steve, if you check the length of the mini-mill rails you will find that each one is 2 foot long. my set up is based on an 8 ft by 6x2 inch plank. if you screw 4 of the rails to the plank and then cut the plank in half you will have 2 four foot planks that you can use on any length of tree simply by leap frogging the planks.

 

Cheers Bob, I've been thinking of getting another 6ft section of aluminium feather edge so could do the leap frogging with that as well.

 

Is there a reason people use wood for the runner instead of aluminium? (I've not done any milling yet so this is all new to me). Cheers, Steve

[Bob Slade]

i screw mine down with a couple of turbo screws ( the ones with the 8mm hex head)

the 6" wide plank will give you a more stable surface to work with, it doesn't have to be 2" thick 1.1/2 to 1.3/4" will do.

[agg221]

Is there a reason people use wood for the runner instead of aluminium? (I've not done any milling yet so this is all new to me). Cheers, Steve

 

Yes, most people don't have any aluminium lying around

 

Whether you need a thick rail or a thin rail depends a lot on how you use the mini-mill.

 

If you are using it for quartering then you can start by skimming the top off the log, giving you a flat face to work from. This means you can use a very thin guide plank (mine is 6" x 3/4") as it is held flat against the 'true' surface of the butt. You can then do the leap-frogging trick, but some care is needed to keep it straight as you move it whereas if it's full length you don't have to worry about it.

 

If you are using the mini-mill to take the sides off over-width butts or to make square beams with slightly waney corners then you have some or all of the guide rail in free space, so it needs to be stiff enough to support itself between supports.

 

Alec

[SteveA]

i screw mine down with a couple of turbo screws ( the ones with the 8mm hex head)

the 6" wide plank will give you a more stable surface to work with, it doesn't have to be 2" thick 1.1/2 to 1.3/4" will do.

 

Do you use spacers/ wedges underneath the cutting side of the plank to keep it ridged? Cheers, Steve

[Rob D]

I'd love to see a way that you would have a set of first cut rails like a ladder type set up - that you could use to get the first cut but then it would also act as the rail for the mini mill or a mini mill type set up...

 

 

Maybe one day!

 

 

[SteveA]

I'd love to see a way that you would have a set of first cut rails like a ladder type set up - that you could use to get the first cut but then it would also act as the rail for the mini mill or a mini mill type set up...

 

Maybe one day!

 

I think I understand what you're saying Rob - to down cut the side and top of the log with the same guide rail, if that's what you mean? I thought about that earlier today.

[Rob D]

I think I understand what you're saying Rob - to down cut the side and top of the log with the same guide rail, if that's what you mean? I thought about that earlier today.

 

 

That's it - so you can do first cut with the Alaskan and side cuts with mini mill - all on one system.

[SteveA]

That's it - so you can do first cut with the Alaskan and side cuts with mini mill - all on one system.

 

May have a go at that.... What's the maximum depth I need to keep in mind for the screws (before the chainsaw cuts into them).