Chain help please

[Boaty]

Hello, just a quickie as I know this had been asked before I just can't seem to find a definitive answer, I'm looking for a 50" (ish!) bar and chain, iv been looking at a sugihara 46" bar for milling and everyday use, what ripping chain is the most popular the stihl, oregon, or the one tha begins with g? Also full chisel, semi or micro for all round use? Or do you have more than one and change them over for different tasks? And finally has anyone used chainsawbars.co.uk?

Sorry for the amount of questions!

[Rich2484]

Chainsaw bars.co.uk is rob d on here.

 

Good service and knowledgable. He also does a lot of milling.

 

I don't mill but the semi is good for use as it won't blunt out as quick as full if you hit anything and is also easy to sharpen back up the full.

 

Some do use skip or semi skip aswell.

[Bob Slade]

Hello, just a quickie as I know this had been asked before I just can't seem to find a definitive answer, I'm looking for a 50" (ish!) bar and chain, iv been looking at a sugihara 46" bar for milling and everyday use, what ripping chain is the most popular the stihl, oregon, or the one tha begins with g? Also full chisel, semi or micro for all round use? Or do you have more than one and change them over for different tasks? And finally has anyone used chainsawbars.co.uk?

Sorry for the amount of questions!

 

pm sent

[agg221]

The 46" bar has the large saw mounts, so whichever saw you are using will have enough power that you won't need to worry about skip/semi-skip chain as the bar isn't long enough to need it for chip clearance reasons - hence full comp chain will be fine.

 

You will need a different chain for ripping (milling) and for crosscutting. Whilst you can cut the other way with either chain, it is slower and less efficient. For milling, there are options of Stihl, Oregon and Granberg. The Stihl and Oregon chains are essentially the same configuration - normal chain but sharpened at 10degrees (you can in fact make your own by grinding standard chain down, but it wastes a lot of the chain life). The Granberg chain has a configuration of alternating top plates on each side ground very narrow so they act as scoring knives, followed by a normal tooth which acts to rake out the material between the scored lines. All three work well when sharp. The Granberg is a bit more efficient so takes a little less power from the saw and leaves a slightly better finish. I used to use Oregon chain throughout, but following working with Burrell now prefer the Granberg chain as I am either milling for other people and want to give the best quality I can and sometimes need to achieve fairly challenging production rates in a day, or am milling my own stuff which if it's with the chainsaw mill is too wide to go through my thicknesser, so I want to minimise my hand finishing work. I still use Oregon chain for some of my own stuff, mainly rougher work such as quick breaking down of dirty timber eg with external mud or high risk of metal, as it's cheaper.

 

For normal crosscutting chain, it depends on what you are doing. If it's usually clean stuff then a full chisel chain will give the quickest results; if it's low down, stumping or seasoned stuff then a semi-chisel will hold its edge better.

 

If you go to chainsawbars.co.uk and click on the custom/bulk chain tab, custom chain loops option you can bring up the available chains for your required pitch/gauge. If you click on them you will get a short description of each which may help.

 

I do Rob D's online support, so if you email [email protected] then you get me anyway:001_smile:

 

Alec

[Boaty]

pm sent

 

Sorry mate iv not had one come through. And Alec that's exactly what u was after thanks very much. Is the sugihara bar ok for both types of work as well? And I will be using that website as it seems pretty idiot proof and very helpful compared to a lot of others!

[agg221]

Sorry mate iv not had one come through. And Alec that's exactly what u was after thanks very much. Is the sugihara bar ok for both types of work as well? And I will be using that website as it seems pretty idiot proof and very helpful compared to a lot of others!

 

Yes, the Sugihara bar is very good for both. It's particularly stiff which both helps when milling as there is less vibration and when felling as the nose doesn't droop so much. It is also fine for cross-cutting but the benefit is less here.

 

Glad you like the website - it's all in the quality of the tech support you know

 

Alec

[Boaty]

Thank you.

[Stubby]

I have a large Canon bar and chain if you are interested . Around the 46" maybe more . Was on my 3120 . Quite broad as well so more rigid I would say . Done very little work . Still has all the writing on it , no paint missing ....

[Boaty]

I have a large Canon bar and chain if you are interested . Around the 46" maybe more . Was on my 3120 . Quite broad as well so more rigid I would say . Done very little work . Still has all the writing on it , no paint missing ....

 

How much do you want for then chap? And have you any pics? I know you probably won't right now and I'm happy to wait

[agg221]

How much do you want for then chap? And have you any pics? I know you probably won't right now and I'm happy to wait

 

Not sure if you've put up what saw you want it for somewhere else, but note that different saws have different mounts, ie the bars are not interchangeable between all makes and models. If it fits, Cannon bars are good

 

Alec