Apple tree problem

[rowan lee]

Was asked about this at the weekend, 3 trees - Kathy and discovery varieties.

10 years in the ground. Has been producing fruit, until this season. No fruit this year, but vigorous growth throughout.

 

Is this common in apple tree's and what may have caused it to pump all its energy into new growth rather then fruit? Could it be stress related - we had a very dry spell here in Ireland through the mid summer months.

 

thanks.

[rowan lee]

They are producing alot of growth this year, and it maybe due to drought stress.

For your trees i would prune out most of the new growth this winter, and thin out half of the apples next june.

Thanks Slack, Ill pass that on.

Those in the picture look like dwarfs and I would winter prune them taking out any rubbing branches and any vertical growth and open up the middle of the tree, the old adage was that you should be able to throw your hat through the tree.

They are dwarfs alright, good pruning tips, thanks.

toomuch nitrogen?

Don't think its been fertilized, Tony. Thanks though.

Only two causes - either they didn't have blossom or it didn't set. If they can remember whether it blossomed it would help identify the problem.

 

If it blossomed but didn't set then it suggests either a late frost or lack of pollination. Several varieties so lack of pollination could be down to poor weather meaning lack of insects at the time.

 

If it didn't blossom, but has been previously, it suggests that the blossom was taken off by previous pruning, so if it hasn't been pruned I would guess it isn't that.

 

The increased growth is probably because it hasn't been putting any energy into fruit this year.

 

I would be careful about pruning - if you go at it too hard you send it into regrowth rather than fruit formation. I would probably look at judicious thinning of the structure, removing high growth which extends up beyond the main 'ball shaped' structure (visible in the first picture) completely, down within the structure, but probably not touching much else. More thinning could be done next year to let light and air in. It should start fruiting again (note whether it blossoms or not, as otherwise you could get a false impression due to a late frost or similar). If it blossoms, all well and good. If not, time to take other action.

 

Alec

 

Thanks Alex for the detail here. I need to ask about the blossom? Lack of pollination is a distinct possibility but can't think why. Is there a specific window of time for this? It could well have been a very localised weather event that caused problems here. Frost I think might v=be ruled out as the site did seem quite sheltered - who knows though, there were some cold mornings well into May this year. Thanks for the pruning tips, ill pass this on.

[carpenter1]

i planted a 40 tree orchar 3 years ago on m25 stock,

just had a few apples this year, hoping for alot more

for cider:thumbup:

[Ian G 2]

I was told you needed to water in prolonged dry spells if you wished good yields of fruit?

[agg221]

I was told you needed to water in prolonged dry spells if you wished good yields of fruit?

 

Yes, or you can get more June drop than normal, but if the fruit set then you will still get some, although they may be smaller.

 

Alec

[rowan lee]

If they can remember whether it blossomed it would help identify the problem.

Alec

 

Spoke to owner again this weekend. Apparently they all blossomed alright, so as you said perhaps a late frost (There were some cold mornings in May this year, and on a local level could have bad enough to do damage).

[campanula]

A number of apple trees go into a biennial bearing mode (the Cox Pippin is notorious for this) where they will have a good year, then a non-fruiting year, in 2 year cycles. Looking at the trees, I think a bit of summer spur pruning would be in order (not hard winter pruning, that will cause water shoots and make the problem worse). In July or thereabouts, the small branches which do not end in a fruiting spur, need trimming back to around 3/4 leaves from the base of the shoot....which will form a fruiting spur for the following year. Spur pruning is a lovely, meditative job (I love to work on cordons or espaliers) and has effective results for a small amount of careful cutting.