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Apple flowers.


Graham
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I have a Bramley apple in the garden which isn't on a dwarfing rootstock so it's a vigorous old b. My neighbour tells me it was planted 46 years ago when he moved in.

 

It has been pollarded hard in the past and is forming some nice knobbly bits with cavities. I like the cavities for the blue tits etc and because it was getting big I repollarded it three years ago.

 

The question is: when will it blossoms again? The regrowth has now reached six feet and I would have expected some flowers by now. Any ideas?

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If it's on crab stock, or more likely a selection such as M2 given its age, it will be a big tree if let go - 20' or so, so it's a fair way from that yet.

 

Unless it is impossible to do anything other than pollarding it, I would suggest an alternative management strategy. It will give you the best balance if you keep the branches close to horizontal. If you can create a permanent scaffold of horizontal branches, fairly evenly spread, with side branches from these on a rotation, taking them out every three years or so, you can stop the tree from bolting (which is what it's done).

 

I've only done this previously by pruning, but following discussion with Gollum this winter I have changed approach and suggest that to start this process, you might find it most effective to tie down some selected branches to start forming the scaffold. This will convert them from growth to fruit and you should get blossom next year.

 

If you can stick up a few pics I can try to comment further if it helps.

 

Alec

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An apple tree makes new growth year one, fruit buds develop year two, flowers year three.

 

Usually yes, but Bramley is predominantly a tip bearer, particularly on juvenile growth. This means it will form its flower buds literally at the very tip of the previous year's growth.

 

Alec

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I have 2.5 acres of Bramley that I planted nearly 40 years ago. None of them do that. ;)

Another thing with Bramley, the best thing to do with them when they are growing skywards is to just leave them. The weight of fruit will fetch them down in a year or two.

Worst thing you can do is prune those shoots back, this just strengthens them so they won't ever come down.

 

Mine are all on MM106 and all pruned in such a way that we never pick off ladders. (gives an idea of height)

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If it's on crab stock, or more likely a selection such as M2 given its age, it will be a big tree if let go - 20' or so, so it's a fair way from that yet.

 

Unless it is impossible to do anything other than pollarding it, I would suggest an alternative management strategy. It will give you the best balance if you keep the branches close to horizontal. If you can create a permanent scaffold of horizontal branches, fairly evenly spread, with side branches from these on a rotation, taking them out every three years or so, you can stop the tree from bolting (which is what it's done).

 

I've only done this previously by pruning, but following discussion with Gollum this winter I have changed approach and suggest that to start this process, you might find it most effective to tie down some selected branches to start forming the scaffold. This will convert them from growth to fruit and you should get blossom next year.

 

If you can stick up a few pics I can try to comment further if it helps.

 

Alec

 

I shall take some and get back with them. Thanks.

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If it's on crab stock, or more likely a selection such as M2 given its age, it will be a big tree if let go - 20' or so, so it's a fair way from that yet.

 

Unless it is impossible to do anything other than pollarding it, I would suggest an alternative management strategy. It will give you the best balance if you keep the branches close to horizontal. If you can create a permanent scaffold of horizontal branches, fairly evenly spread, with side branches from these on a rotation, taking them out every three years or so, you can stop the tree from bolting (which is what it's done).

 

I've only done this previously by pruning, but following discussion with Gollum this winter I have changed approach and suggest that to start this process, you might find it most effective to tie down some selected branches to start forming the scaffold. This will convert them from growth to fruit and you should get blossom next year.

 

If you can stick up a few pics I can try to comment further if it helps.

 

Alec

 

Totally agree :thumbup:

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Usually yes, but Bramley is predominantly a tip bearer, particularly on juvenile growth. This means it will form its flower buds literally at the very tip of the previous year's growth.

 

Alec

 

Spot on :thumbup:

 

Planted aprox 300 acres of Bramley. in the last 35 years or so

Edited by Gollum
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