Scandanavian wide plank flooring in Logosol newsletter

[difflock]

Wedge shaped boards were mentioned

so I understand this to be the profile of the trunk?

But it did not look radial sawn or even quarter sawn.(afaic see in the photos)

They were talking about planing planks from a 500mm butted tree.

But surely more sensible to split the plank down the middle, plane, then flip one board over so the pair form a parallel sided "pair"

So the first plank straight through the centre is OK because radial sawn.

Finished diminson of 30mm so sawn quite thick.

But what about the rest of the tree, I can only presume it is utilized in other ways.

Only one prime plank being taken from each tree?

Otherwise, why does it not "cap" or warp?

As always,

signed,

G,M&Twitch

[wills-mill]

I was looking at that. Very nice boards- I guess that the wedge shape follows the taper of the tree, he'd allowed a fair bit for planing and the cupping while it dries wouldn't be very noticeable on slow grown Scandi softwood. If you did that here with Larch, Doug, WRc etc etc it'd be fine, no probs at all.

 

We did wonder if the boards would end up random widths (but with the same taper?)- the middle few boards being widest and the outer boards narrower.

[wills-mill]

Oddly enough, that full width central plank with true quartersawn/radial cut would be most stable when drying but end up with the nastiest defects in most cases. Any branches would leave you 'spike' knots across the boards and you're quite likely to get a crack right up the heart as well.

 

Irritatingly, quartersawn timber generally has to have the heart sawn out of it, giving you boards that are less than 1/2 the tree's diameter.

[Rhob the Log]

Second that. All dimensioned boxed heart wood is cupping really badly for my carpenter mate. Where would you dimension it to reduce the effect? As soon as the grain starts circling or further out?

[agrimog]

his wide floorboards were first dried and conditioned in a logosol sona kiln. so they should be nice and stable after there down, scandanavians going back to the basics once again

[morten]

I was looking at that. Very nice boards- I guess that the wedge shape follows the taper of the tree, he'd allowed a fair bit for planing and the cupping while it dries wouldn't be very noticeable on slow grown Scandi softwood. If you did that here with Larch, Doug, WRc etc etc it'd be fine, no probs at all.

 

We did wonder if the boards would end up random widths (but with the same taper?)- the middle few boards being widest and the outer boards narrower.

 

In the "old days" (1800's), floor boards in Sweden were all "kilsågad" (wedge-sawn), for the simple reason as to maximise the yield. Wood was relatively expensive, labor cheap, sawing a mainly manual process and therefore standardisation (parallel edges, standard dimensions etc) not important.

 

The boards were just straight-edged and had whatever taper that the tree dictated. Each board had different width and different taper. The boards were simply laid down in alternating tapering direction, or whatever direction would give the "most parallel" edge.

 

It looks really good, and gives the room a much more "organic" look.

 

Here is a (Swedish language) article about how to lay "kilsågad" flooring Lägga ett kilsågat golv

 

Here is a Google Translated version: Google Translate

Edited April 26, 2013 by morten

[agrimog]

thats an inspiring article Morten, something I might try, I've got a cabin to build for a client and that floor layout would be stunning