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Ganoderma?


Gary Prentice
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Yes

 

Possibly G. applanatum/lipsiense

 

If so, it may just be feeding off the central dysfunctional wood and not into the buttresses.

 

 

 

 

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I'm thinking/hoping so. We've had some gale force winds over the last fortnight, but there's no indication of any rootplate movement. The client said this morning that the stems blow about but the tree doesn't rock. Maybe not the best description, but I understand what she means.

 

I would consider a thin rather than a reduction on a hawthorn simply because of the density of the canopy if its quite squat.

 

Its been thinned, and lifted quite heavily, as the neighbour isn't a great fan of it (Appeasement Pruning!) Its a largish tree, with a high canopy, and needs to get some lower foliage encouraged, if reduction is decided upon.

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and im thinking ganoderma australe due to the second layers having been born as new layers from the rear rather than through via mycelium in the old tube layers.

 

nicely done with the tubes exposed

 

So, is the second layer of tubes being born as a new layer a particular identifying factor of G australe? Or are some of the other Gano species the same?

 

I've never considered how fungi grow, year to year, so this is all new information. Ergo, in this particular species, as long as food is present, would each tube layer represent a years growth.

 

Furthermore, if the bracket stops increasing in size, would that indicate that it had exhausted the available food supply?

 

Could you recommend some literature, websites etc, I really need to expand my understanding of mycology.

 

cheers Tony

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So, is the second layer of tubes being born as a new layer a particular identifying factor of G australe? Or are some of the other Gano species the same?

 

I have a paper somewhere might take some finding, as I understand it applanatum is on its own in this regard and hence why it is a suitable host for the flat foot fly, though I would confirm this for yourself, i may be wrong, I can be!

 

I've never considered how fungi grow, year to year, so this is all new information. Ergo, in this particular species, as long as food is present, would each tube layer represent a years growth.

 

Annual brackets fade and rot away each year, perennials like fommes and ganos all add new layers till the resources run out.

 

Furthermore, if the bracket stops increasing in size, would that indicate that it had exhausted the available food supply?

 

Pretty much, also some brackets especialy ganoderma australe/rigidiporus ulmarius (Biotrophic) produce sterile conks with no tubes as a panic reproduction when the resources are running out and a sexualy compatible colonization hasn't occurred

 

Could you recommend some literature, websites etc, I really need to expand my understanding of mycology.

 

seek out anything written by Schwarze, Gerrit Jan Keizer but i will come back with some extras later when Ive gone through the hard drive, theres so much in it, could keep you reading for months if not years.

 

the good/usefull stuff can be hard to find, but track it down, theres so much to find on basic internet searches when you know what to search for:thumbup1:

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had some time to investigate this further today. Removing the rotted, dysfunctional, wood, probing and tapping around the buttresses. Not good results, unfortunately.

 

The best that I can assess is there's only a couple of inches of sound wood around about 60% of the circumference. The tree splits into three stems, all leaning out over a large greenhouse, timber shed and summerhouse.

 

Due to its pruning history, I can't really envisage that a reduction is going to be practical, in that loading could be significantly reduced to prevent failure. \so it's got to go. I've suggested retaining a high stump as it's putting out some epicormic growth, rather than replanting.

 

It's a shame, this is one I really would have liked to keep.

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I had some time to investigate this further today. Removing the rotted, dysfunctional, wood, probing and tapping around the buttresses. Not good results, unfortunately.

 

The best that I can assess is there's only a couple of inches of sound wood around about 60% of the circumference. The tree splits into three stems, all leaning out over a large greenhouse, timber shed and summerhouse.

 

Due to its pruning history, I can't really envisage that a reduction is going to be practical, in that loading could be significantly reduced to prevent failure. so it's got to go. I've suggested retaining a high stump as it's putting out some epicormic growth, rather than replanting.

 

It's a shame, this is one I really would have liked to keep.

 

sometimes we just have to go with natures flow, tis a natural thing:thumbup1:

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I had some time to investigate this further today. Removing the rotted, dysfunctional, wood, probing and tapping around the buttresses. Not good results, unfortunately.

 

The best that I can assess is there's only a couple of inches of sound wood around about 60% of the circumference. The tree splits into three stems, all leaning out over a large greenhouse, timber shed and summerhouse.

 

Due to its pruning history, I can't really envisage that a reduction is going to be practical, in that loading could be significantly reduced to prevent failure. so it's got to go. I've suggested retaining a high stump as it's putting out some epicormic growth, rather than replanting.

 

It's a shame, this is one I really would have liked to keep.

 

A couple inches is a lot if it's healthy. That rib in your pic looked pretty strong.

Have you considered cabling to prevent splitting apart?

 

What pruning history?

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