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Stihl MS341 Ignition Problem


timmy2013
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Disconnect the Kill wire from the coil and set the coil to flywheel gap to the thickness of typical A4 paper - this is a bit close for normal but hear me out.

 

Strap the wires away from the flywheel replace the recoil and give the saw a decent hard pull in subdued light with the plug earthing on the cylinder.

 

If you still get no spark, meter out between the plug cap and the kill wire connection - you should get a reading - can't recall what it is but it will NOT be open circuit - if it is and you have had to fit the spark plug cap parts - spring bit that pushes through the HT lead - it is this that is the issue.

 

I wouldn't expect the magnets in the flywheel to go after two years:confused1:

 

This is my next port of call. After disconnecting the short circuit wires from the coil and eliminating the circuit it could only leave the ht lead area. Stihl sell there coils with this part off and you have to fit it yourself. They can come out when fitting but arnt noticed as they get wedged in. You could remove it from the cap and just lecy tape the spring on with the plug on it and then test it.

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Have tried removing the kill wires, but made no difference.

 

I will take another look at the HT lead as the way the spark plug spring is just hooked through the lead is a bit fiddly and its entirely possible that I have not made a good connection.

 

Cheers all

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Have tried removing the kill wires, but made no difference.

 

I will take another look at the HT lead as the way the spark plug spring is just hooked through the lead is a bit fiddly and its entirely possible that I have not made a good connection.

 

Cheers all

 

Thats where the smart money is - what I do - force the spur through the HT lean and get a meter to check for continuity between the sparkplug top connector and the visible wires on the end of the HT lead! I have a couple of other things I do to make it easier to fit the boot but this is the area where you need to concentrate on:thumbup:

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Have given up trying to figure out this one. I went back to the old HT lead in the new coil, working on the principle that the connection to the plug worked before so should work now. That is assuming that the old HT lead wasnt the problem in the first place.

 

Either way I have dropped it off with the rude people (another story) at my local shop, guess we will find out what that Stihl Authorised Service Agent sign is worth.

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Haven't forgotten about this, called them at the beggining of the week, said it would be ready at the end of the week, called yesterday and they said it would be a couple more days,

 

"Great" I said, "so you know what is wrong with it then?"

 

"no" she said

 

THEN HOW DO YOU KNOW IT WILL ONLY BE A COUPLE OF DAYS!!!!!!

 

I really need to find a new shop, particularly as my whacker plate is now being an idiot and I don't want to take it there.

 

Rant over :)

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Haven't forgotten about this, called them at the beggining of the week, said it would be ready at the end of the week, called yesterday and they said it would be a couple more days,

 

"Great" I said, "so you know what is wrong with it then?"

 

"no" she said

 

THEN HOW DO YOU KNOW IT WILL ONLY BE A COUPLE OF DAYS!!!!!!

 

I really need to find a new shop, particularly as my whacker plate is now being an idiot and I don't want to take it there.

 

Rant over :)

 

If you really get stuck.........I am a courier away:lol:

 

I am really interested with this one - I have a nagging feeling that the flywheel being two years old is OK! I am thinking coil to flywheel gap or coil to HT lead, coil to plug cap is the issue here - unless both coils are dud and if both are OEM Stihl - it is unlikely the new one won't work!

 

I reckon the angry men are angry at their own lack of ability:blushing::lol:

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called yesterday and they said it would be a couple more days,

 

"Great" I said, "so you know what is wrong with it then?"

 

"no" she said

 

THEN HOW DO YOU KNOW IT WILL ONLY BE A COUPLE OF DAYS!!!!!!

 

 

Rant over :)

 

I would go and get it and send it to spud, it would have most likely been sorted by now and returned to you and a lot cheaper that what these amateurs will most likely charge.

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I would go and get it and send it to spud, it would have most likely been sorted by now and returned to you and a lot cheaper that what these amateurs will most likely charge.

 

Thanks Ray:thumbup: this one has me intrigued, it is good sometimes to get something that tests your skills rather than the "same old same old"....:thumbup1:

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