Commercial Tree/hedge planting.

[G'day Spruce]

Just keep in mind that sometimes Beech whips of that size can have a pretty big root system, so you'll need quite big slots to get everything under ground without damaging the plant...

[Hill-Billy]

Just keep in mind that sometimes Beech whips of that size can have a pretty big root system' date=' so you'll need quite big slots to get everything under ground without damaging the plant...[/quote']

 

Sure, point taken. It's going to be a steep learning curve. Luckily the field I'm planting in won't be steep as well!

[G'day Spruce]

I use one of these for planting, nice weight with a good treadle 031100 Schlich ( also Schlick ) Tree Planting Spade from Stanton Hope

[Goaty]

Goaty, you sound like the man for the job. Can I sub-contract this job to you?

If I could still get a £1000/day for the job so much the better. I could pay you handsomely and keep a few quid for myself. So what if there is a recession on. Expand, expand I say. Throw money at it and wait for the rewards to flow back in....And back to reality and the original question...what was it? oh yes. Is it worth doing this kind of backbreaking work for a fist full of dollar. Pounds I mean. All that fresh air, danger-free exercise:001_tt2:....Get me back in the trees!

 

I did that for around £48 a day back then.

Im 10 years older now and probably would need stretchering off site at the end of the day now. I am currently looking at a massive planting of 40,000 trees, with guards and stakes. If I could still do 100 per day its only 450 8 hour days

[Hill-Billy]

I did that for around £48 a day back then.

Im 10 years older now and probably would need stretchering off site at the end of the day now. I am currently looking at a massive planting of 40,000 trees, with guards and stakes. If I could still do 100 per day its only 450 8 hour days

 

Phew! I broke out in a sweat just thinking about your labour needs. A question to G'day Spruce: don't you use a Newcastle narrow spade for planting - besides, those ones you show look a tad pricey. Are they really :001_smile:worth it?

[G'day Spruce]

Phew! I broke out in a sweat just thinking about your labour needs. A question to G'day Spruce: don't you use a Newcastle narrow spade for planting - besides, those ones you show look a tad pricey. Are they really :001_smile:worth it?

 

If your going to be planting a lot, then I wouldn't be without one, the weight and shape of the blade takes a lot of strain out of the job imo, right tool for the job!

[Goaty]

An easier way is use more expensive cell grown plugs and a hole coring tool. Its like racing along on a pogo stick. Saves in labour.

As for newcastle drainer thats all I have ever used.

Probably not done by many and Depending on plant sizes I often prune the plants before planting and trim the roots, If you know what you are doing not only does this make the job easier, it will make the plants establish much better. This job can be done on a bench inside on a wet day or in the evening. Plants such as dogwood can have their roots sheared in tied bundles with old hedge shears.

For the disbelievers of this technique, that is what 1+1 transplants etc are. Grown one year, lifted, roots trimmed, then lifted to sell following year with bushy root systems.

 

Many planters shove plant in hole with roots twisted or bent up towards surface or at side of the hole with roots going one way at bottom. BAD PRACTICE.

 

By the way If I get larger jobs we tend to use tractor mounted auger on a compact. Its around 50% faster.

[Hill-Billy]

An easier way is use more expensive cell grown plugs and a hole coring tool. Its like racing along on a pogo stick. Saves in labour.

As for newcastle drainer thats all I have ever used.

Probably not done by many and Depending on plant sizes I often prune the plants before planting and trim the roots, If you know what you are doing not only does this make the job easier, it will make the plants establish much better. This job can be done on a bench inside on a wet day or in the evening. Plants such as dogwood can have their roots sheared in tied bundles with old hedge shears.

For the disbelievers of this technique, that is what 1+1 transplants etc are. Grown one year, lifted, roots trimmed, then lifted to sell following year with bushy root systems.

 

Many planters shove plant in hole with roots twisted or bent up towards surface or at side of the hole with roots going one way at bottom. BAD PRACTICE.

 

By the way If I get larger jobs we tend to use tractor mounted auger on a compact. Its around 50% faster.

 

Great info Goaty. What was the name/author of that book you mentioned in an earlier thread? What you said about trimming the tree roots to settle them in better. Is that to prevent girdling roots - which could easily happen when rapid planting? Quality control is my main concern. There just doesn't seem like you have enough time to do a quality job.

[growforest]

Root trimming always the way to go. Done a lot of thorn and guelder in my time, and we always trim the roots. Beware compacting the bottom of the planting slot too with a too-heavy spade, or smearing clay soil. You want the planting tool to crumb the soil up so it can settle back in around the roots when you tread in.

Planting can be profitable if you put in long days, and buy quality plants. As with anything, prep is the key. Weed-free, know the ground, should make some profit.

On good ground, a treaded rabbiting spade works well. Schlich on harder going - but you'll know the next day. Cell-grown are expensive, but good for forest replants - best off with a corer, as said. Alba Trees have all the gear.

[Goaty]

Murray Maclean The book I have is" New hedges for the countryside" I think. It looks like he has superseeded it with this

Hedges and Hedgelaying: A Guide to Planting, Management and Conservation by... 1861268688 | eBay

 

Yes frost can push out badly planted plants also if roots all together the can push plant out, or strangle/outcompete with each other.