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Stripped the thread on chaincatcher


wisewood
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You could get a heli coil to go in it ive used them on the still combi hedge cutter and had no problems.

 

Cheers for that, I'll look into it:thumbup:

 

Ok, been and had a look. My 660 has the outer felling dog(or "bump spike" as stihl call them) with part number 1122 664 0500. Depending on the age of your saw, it may have this fitted from new. If so, all you need is the roller kit I mentioned earlier, all assuming you want to go down this path.

 

 

 

Ok, looked at the 260, and my old 360 thats fitted with a roller. The 260 clutch cover does have the pre drilled holes the same as the 360, and appears to share the same part number on my pdf. Also shares the same part number for the inner dog.

 

I did fit an outer dog to my 360 and roller catcher, but it appeared at the time there was no outer dog for the 360, so got a 660 one(listed above). This was much bigger and needed an inner one from the 660 to match up better. When both dogs were fitted, the outer one pertrudes slightly forward meaning the holes for the roller shaft dont line up correctly. All I did was drill a hole in the inner dog directly opposite the hole in the outer one, then fitted the roller.

 

All this said about the 360 should transfer to the 250/260 if you wanted to do it, but these dogs from the 660 look huge on the 360! They will fit with some thought and drilling one hole for the roller shaft, but the difference exhausting chips is brilliant. Since fitting the rollers, I have never had either saw bung with chip.

 

For Wisewood, 660 with roller catcher fitted;

 

[ATTACH]109481[/ATTACH]

 

For ACG, 360 with roller. Note the pre-drilled hole next to the one I drilled and fitted the roller in line.

 

[ATTACH]109482[/ATTACH]

 

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Lots of good info here 18 stoner, thanks.

Does the roller bolt just connect the two dogs or does it also screw into the casing(ie the stripped out thread). The inner dog would only be fixed at the top screw unless I fix the thread issue.

Another point, is it a pain getting the clutch cover off, do you need to un do the bolt on the roller?

Cheers,

Si

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Looks brilliant, thanks very much for that.. Do you think you could use smaller dogs on the 250? Can't remember without looking at my 250 if there is much clearance at the bottom of the dog for the shaft. That being said I'm 100% buying one for the 390 not only does it save any inconvenience it also looks the bollocks lol! Thanks again. Ash :thumbup:

 

The biggest trouble is, you cant get an outer dog the same size as the standard inner one, hence why I went for the bigger pair from the 660. Only issue is the outer one is about 7mm further forward on the saw than the inner one when fitted to the 360. I would assume its the same on the 250/260 but one hole soon lines up the roller shaft.

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You could possibly get away with the bolt missing fitting one of those and having 3 in play.. Although a few easy fixes have been mentioned. Looking at the pic I'd say 100% would need to be removed for clutch casing removal, either that or take the outer dog screws out. Ash

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Cheers for that, I'll look into it:thumbup:

 

 

Lots of good info here 18 stoner, thanks.

Does the roller bolt just connect the two dogs or does it also screw into the casing(ie the stripped out thread). The inner dog would only be fixed at the top screw unless I fix the thread issue.

Another point, is it a pain getting the clutch cover off, do you need to un do the bolt on the roller?

Cheers,

Si

 

The roller shaft has one nut on it. This end is best on the clutch cover side. The other end of the shaft just slots into the hole in the other dog so no unbolting needed when removing the cover.

 

As for its location, it's no where near the static type you have stripped the thread on. It sits only in the bottom of the dogs, therefore giving much more clearance below the chain, hence why they never bung up with chip.:thumbup1:

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The biggest trouble is, you cant get an outer dog the same size as the standard inner one, hence why I went for the bigger pair from the 660. Only issue is the outer one is about 7mm further forward on the saw than the inner one when fitted to the 360. I would assume its the same on the 250/260 but one hole soon lines up the roller shaft.

 

Oh right.. Just to make sure I have read that correct.. If I purchase the 660 dog set and put them on my 390 (360 your case) they come up 7mm out? Understand simple to fit the shaft just annoying the dogs arnt as straight forward.

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Oh right.. Just to make sure I have read that correct.. If I purchase the 660 dog set and put them on my 390 (360 your case) they come up 7mm out? Understand simple to fit the shaft just annoying the dogs arnt as straight forward.

 

Yeh, not sure about the 390, never been involved with one to be honest. But yes, I was guessing at 7mm, but they are from the 660 so guess the alignment is slightly different. All that happens after drilling the hole for the shaft is the outer dog is slightly forward. Its purely cosmetic though, as when you think about it, its usually not in uniform and flat timber(ie, either one dog or the other has better purchase) so never had a downside when used in anger.

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Is it the inner or outer dog further back prior to fitting the roller? Only reason I ask is if its the inner and then the outer one is bought forward after fitting the roller less out of alinement arnt they? not necessary as you stated. Cheers for the info.

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Its the outer thats forward, but thinking about it, there's 3 different sizes for the 660, so if you come to order them through your dealer, you may be able to get the longer dog for the inner of your saw, it may(if you're lucky) about the same length when fitted but its a bit of a guess:blushing:

 

If you want I'll take more pics of it with side cover off tomorrow if you like, I've had too much wine and the googlies might get me if I venture outside at this time of night:laugh1:

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The roller shaft has one nut on it. This end is best on the clutch cover side. The other end of the shaft just slots into the hole in the other dog so no unbolting needed when removing the cover.

 

As for its location, it's no where near the static type you have stripped the thread on. It sits only in the bottom of the dogs, therefore giving much more clearance below the chain, hence why they never bung up with chip.:thumbup1:

 

Ah yes well spotted, I'll probably try a helicoil fix for the stripped out thread and then upgrade to the roller system. Thanks for clearing this up bud.

Si

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To be honest, if you are thinking of going onto the roller type anyway, I wouldnt bother with the hassle of helicoiling first. I'd just get the roller, you dont need both and the rollers are cheap!

 

Could be just me though, I've developed a bit of a dislike for the standard type after using the roller. I'd say the static type is responsible for 95% of times a saw bungs up!

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