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First big reduction tomorrow


hilog
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I've always thought there's a widespread misconception with regard to shaping trees to even shapes.

 

To my mind the tree will tell you what shape it wants to be, which may not be even.

 

I combine techniques using growth points, individually 'pollarded' branches, preferably to a fork....two small wounds being better than one large one and RVT (reduction via thinning).

 

 

Depends on the size of the tree but I Iend to work it by quarters. This is an art which will gain you more time than any mechanical prussic. The art being finding your shortest route round the tree...I'm still crap at it:001_smile:

 

 

Edit: limes are a bit of a law unto themselves...some folk only lightly thin them...but this depends on how much wonga the client has. Some butcher them and turn them into lollypop trees.

Edited by Albedo
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On some trees yes, on others no. I daresay I will be decried as a heretic (or worse!) but why cut back to some growth on say a crack willow which is going to frith up in weeks anyway. Whether you leave a twig with 10 leaves on the end or not.

It's dogma that's all.

 

I'd agree, you can make your own growth points on Willows by wedging a live twig under the bark! Ruddy mental things...... I'm psyching myself up for a big pollarding session!

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You always need growth points where possible. If customer spec i.e a 50% reduction or something along them lines means you can't then just do your best.

 

I find on big trees that are playing on my mind I just get stuck in. Before you realise you will be so busy concentrating on the shape and where your going next in the tree you'll forget all about the fact that the ground is a long way down and the day will blow past.

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