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Potential ANCIENT tree removal


Ross Smith
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Hmm wrinkly socks...but it's been seen on trees that have no signs of heartrot otherwise, as well as some pretty hollow old boys...if the owner is keen to cut it; it's their tree after all. if it's a tpo thing certainly a case could be made for retention, but given location etc. it's not one I would crusade for.

 

if you do the removal, a pic of the insides of those wrinkly socks would be marvelous!

 

Do we get Kd? all the time; attached stories and others have dealt with it. both of the maples are still around, 4 and 5 years later. :biggrin: I was shocked to see the leaner with gano and Kd both still standing, just the other day.

 

Thinning crowns lighten loads and lessens risk, but coring can tell a great deal and like schwarze says, if you're gonna make a hole, make a big one. Would you take an increment out of the rot pocket first, or where?

Dendro 11 Bumpy Blackness.pdf

Dendro 8 Terrible Tar.pdf

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I gave this a lot of thought whilst trying to sleep last night, being a sad git these things tend to overstimulate my mental brain!

 

I wouldnt bother coring it, why? because I can almost predict exactly what pattern and degradation will exist within the buttress region, this is all told in the body languages. The Kretz can be confined by a healthy beech to the sinuses as Guy calls them. These are also associated with a depression going up the stem with Active channels fed by the major roots surrounding them. The tree is becoming discontinuous, and is now more a system of discrete units than one almighty organism.

 

I wanted to see if anyone mentioned the basal buckles! this can be mechanical due to lo residual walls or to Ganoderma decay via selective de-lignification (wrinkly sock- Mattheck)

 

The only thing that's going to cause this tree to fail is the basal area being weakened from within and the full nature of the crown baring down on an aging decaying discontinuous root-crown.

 

I would do a very heavy reduction drop crotching it to 2/3rds its current size and paint the entire remaining branch structure with a lime wash to stop scorch and reflect light back to re growth I would also apply Lime/calcium carbonate/chalk to the base within a mulch to alter the PH and give the beech the best chance its got, they are at home in a chalky soil and acidic conditions in the sucsessional woodland cycle gradually defeat them. Thats why acid beech woodland is biodiverse, an old woodland with acidic fungaly dominant soils and veteran/ancient beeches with dysfunctional volumes in less than chalky conditions.

Edited by Tony Croft aka hamadryad
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I'm basically gonna try and do a poor mans picus just to try and get a clearer idea of what's going on around the base with the t/R theory my 400ml drill should be good enough for sound wood mapping

 

 

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stick to the sinus'es and avoid the living channels or you will break the boundary

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Good answer tony and if it was in my garden I would def go with retention but if the client was explained all of the above it would sadly be a case of WTF and given the trees location, total removal is the clients only trail of thought

Derail away brother josh

 

 

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I think the most important thing to consider here is the poor ability of beech to tollerate heavy pruning, not to mention the trees age is certainly going to impede its ability to defend large or numerous wounds and would almost certainly lead to future hazards develping

Due to the close proximity and the high target value, a tree inspector would have no option but to recommend a fell!

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I think the most important thing to consider here is the poor ability of beech to tollerate heavy pruning, not to mention the trees age is certainly going to impede its ability to defend large or numerous wounds and would almost certainly lead to future hazards develping

Due to the close proximity and the high target value, a tree inspector would have no option but to recommend a fell!

 

Rubbish, there is always options, well most of the time

Edited by Tony Croft aka hamadryad
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