Left handed saw use?

[Woodworks]

Hi all I am looking for some guidance.

 

I will try and explain the circumstances for wanting to use the saw left handed.

 

I am in the process of sorting out our Devon hedgerows, most of which have been left far to long. The trees are not that big but the stumps are are a fair old size. What I have been stumping with until recently was a 346XP with a 20" bar yes I know this is bad for the saw so I have recently bought an MS460 with 25" bar. Now the problem I am having is sometimes in gnarly stumps the top of the bar will grip the stump forcing me backwards, this was not a problem before as the 346 did not have much power but the 460 has changed this. Now to cut low to the hedge I would have just held the side handle but now I feel very uncomfortable balanced on a hedge with the saw pushing me back and no easy way of covering the brake. I have tried holding the saw left handed holding the top handle with my right hand. Now this feels safer as I can now hit the brake if the saw pushes back at me. Are there hidden dangers that I have not thought of or is this an OK thing to do? I am sorry for the long winded explanation but I thought you might need some context.

[fergusonforestry]

not following you are cutting stumps balancing on a hedge?

but anyway can you not just use pulling not pushing side?

[Andy Collins]

I think I'm missing something in the reading of this. I've done big hedgerows for quite some time, in all kinds of awkward situations, and have never experienced what you're talking of. I've never felt the urge to use a saw left handed either. Can you get a picture of perhaps how you're handling the saw, maybe on site so it gives a better idea? Something doesn't sound right with your work positioning, and saw handling.

[normandylumberjack]

This is acceptable. Full wrap handles as used on a lot of saws in the us show us this. You may be able to pick one up from your local stihl dealer, i think its available for the ms460 rescue saw from memory? try using a pulling chain where possible (bottom of bar)

[Woodworks]

I am cutting on the pull but occasionally the top of the bar catches on the back of the cut and pushes me back. I have tried using wedges to make sure the saw does not get pinched but this only helped a bit. I am going up there today so I will try and gets some pictures as I am finding it hard to explain. I my well be doing something wrong and I would greatly appreciate sorting out my technique. I should add I have only done a basic Lantra training course 18 years back and felling nice straight pines while standing on the ground does not prepare you for working in a Devon hedge.

[WorcsWuss]

This is acceptable. Full wrap handles as used on a lot of saws in the us show us this. You may be able to pick one up from your local stihl dealer, i think its available for the ms460 rescue saw from memory? try using a pulling chain where possible (bottom of bar)

 

Stihl do indeed make a full wrap handle for the 460, although it's not listed individually as an accessory in the catalogue. If you get a copy of the latest Stihl catalogue at the end of the professional saw section the 460R comes after the 880, the full R accessory kit is 300 quid, but that's the depth limiter etc. Contact a dealer to see if they can get you one on its own, I'm going to see if I can get hold of one as well...

 

I often swap hands when I'm cutting though...

[WorcsWuss]

I am cutting on the pull but occasionally the top of the bar catches on the back of the cut and pushes me back. I have tried using wedges to make sure the saw does not get pinched but this only helped a bit. I am going up there today so I will try and gets some pictures as I am finding it hard to explain. I my well be doing something wrong and I would greatly appreciate sorting out my technique. I should add I have only done a basic Lantra training course 18 years back and felling nice straight pines while standing on the ground does not prepare you for working in a Devon hedge.

 

If it's pinching, could you start the other side and do it as a step cut instead?

[Andy Collins]

Ok, the pictures may help. There is a world of difference between working on nice flat ground poking over a couple of token trees for your ticket, and doing the kind of work youre talking of. Have you considered maybe taking a refresher course to update your skills? Be very aware of where the top of the bar tip is when working in such a confined space, if the saw kicks back you will not have much room to get out if it's way if at all. I hope you have some basic saw protection such as chainsaw trousers, boots, gloves and a hard hat with visor, defenders etc. If possible, is there another member near you who may be able to give some pointers, or even a hand?

[Woodworks]

If it's pinching, could you start the other side and do it as a step cut instead?

 

Often there is no were to stand.

[Andy Collins]

All the training I've had does not advocate left handed saw use, and I cannot say that I would recommend it to someone who I do not know the level of their personal skills. If you are requiring LH use, then your work position must be wrong, we are not talking aerial saw use here, just a hedge.

This may not help, or may be it will, but start the hedge the other end, so you're working right to left, rather than left to right? This way the saw is working with the pulling chain, rather than pushing, and you're dropping the brash to the side you need too?

Edited October 19, 2012 by Andy Collins