Cs100 18 hp problems

[grantdude]

I recently turned the blades round on my chipper to expose the super sharp unused side. I made sure that the anvil clearance was set at 0.5 mm as suggested in the handbook. After putting all back together and running it on tick over all seemed well, . Unfortunatley i did not try it on full revs until i was about to use it on a job where i was horrified to hear a super loud super wrong metal on metal kind of sound. The machine was turned off and brash pile left stacked high. I inspected the anvil distance which was still the correct recommended setting but noticed that there had been friction from the blades as there was a light scuff mark on them. I increased the anvil gap and ran the machine up and the noise was there no longer. the problem i have now is that the brash has to be forced down onto the blades with effort and the machine does not pull in the brash like it did. What can i do? as the arm vibration when feeding the chipper now is a bit too much to handle.

[Andy Collins]

Not sure I understand, if you turn the drum and check the gap between blades and anvil, and everything is tight, how could the gap change? I check mine the same way, run it up on tick over after. I guess all you can do is replace blades and anvil, you'll just cause more problems using as is. Well I suppose you could get the blades resharpened of course, if they aren't too damaged.

[grantdude]

A big massive thank you to the guys at Greenmech for efficiently rectifying my troubled chipper. Turned out to be a crack in the weld on the cassette which houses the blades.

All fixed up and running just like a brand new one. I love my chipper:thumbup1:

 

My best purchase to date:001_smile:

 

once again many thanks

[ostosix]

Looks like i may have the same problem. The newly turned blade is contacting the outside circumference of the casette on the oppodite side than the anvil. Is there a chance the bearings  have worn that way? Or most likely cracked?

[GA Groundcare]

Check your bearings, if there is any play at all, once up to full speed the forces can allow the blade to touch the anvil at the 0.5mm clearance. We have had this before.

 

The anvil is on slotted holes and GM supply a feeler gauge to set the gap. If the anvil has been moved in to match the blade wear on one side then with the blade turned you may be a little close.

 

We always remove the anvil and clean the underside surfaces prior to setting up to ensure correct assembly. 

 

For an "in the field fix" set the gap to 1mm, it should get you chipping.

 

Don't Loctite the blade bolts in either...

[Ashbrooke]

Ours had the same problem. The drum had split along a weld and was opening up at high revs. Props to greenmech we dropped it off at the dealer and they sorted it pretty sharpish, fitted new bearings aswell, I guess incase they had been damaged.

[ostosix]

Yes got it apart and the drum is cracked one side, I have spoke to Jase at Greenmech. Keep an eye out for that before it gets bad enough to wipe out a blade, unfortunately I'll have to replace one.

[Ashbrooke]

What sort of age is your machine? I take it they’re going to fix it.

[ostosix]

Hi im not sure of the age. They are replacing the drum free of charge as its an age where they failure occured due to welding.

Ill source my own main bearings which come to about £58 local. Will get a new set of blades and screws fas well.

 

I just cant reiterate enough to check the blade gap weekly. I dont use mine much, so its gone from running fine to fouling inside a job only chipping aspen. It started to hunt, then metal contact. Not sure if the hunting was caused by the vibration?

 

Had to tap starter to get it to crank on this job aswell. Probably cos it lives outside covered up, will have to have a garage clearout.

 

I absolutely love the machine, as I keep 3inch and above for firewood its ideal.

 

Jase/GM has been great and i was relieved as money isn't plentiful right now.