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lime problem


Dr.Green
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last oct i planted a lime aong with many other trees on a landscaping project - i had to replace 1 lime as it had a nasty wound behind the spiral guard which then snapped out , nursery replaced it thou , anyways , it was thriving in its conditions , unlike its replacement.

 

in 3 weeks it has began to do what is showen in the photos , is it leaf blight ? weather conditions from very wet to sudden warm hot as it on top of a hill in exposed setting

 

there are freash buds there , which i feel is hope as its browning / yellowing fast and sheading leaves

IMG_0572.jpg.eb7af658a854bffa6a74c8a68b2c79e0.jpg

IMG_0571.jpg.099c6b92e53a0e6070a3a2a732dbe1f7.jpg

IMG_0570.jpg.7b0a601768e7b040f037199cf474b495.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

I recognise these leaf symptoms from a problem I have on my acre-and-a-half native plantation in Wales, though I'm afraid I can't put a name to it. I suspect it is some form of bacterial infection with an insect vector. I have lost a number of hazel and silver birch. It takes one or two years for the tree/shrub to die, with no new growth and die-back along the branches. Even if there are leaf buds, the next year's leaves are likely to be dessicated and undersized. However, some plants survive, though they probably act as hosts. It seems to depend on how readily the tree surrenders its leaves as to whether it survives or not. If it holds onto them, the multiplying bacteria can enter and choke the vascular system. I have to stress that this is non-professional theory only, garnered from observation and reading around. I sent samples off for analysis but they couldn't identify anything. My only remedy so far has been to prune well back from infected leaves in the hope of preventing whatever it is from getting down into the wood. Last winter I did also give quite a heavy application of lime around the most susceptible trees, which does seem to have slowed it a bit. Other than that, my stock of small firewood grows.

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  • 2 weeks later...

If it was planted in the spring or summer, then I think it's probably drought stress. It only takes a few days for newly planted trees to go from being healthy looking, to looking like that.

 

The others were planted at the optimum time so they've had a better chance to settle in and can cope better.

 

It'll probably come back next year, but won't grow as fast as the others.

 

You might need to cut the top off that stake BTW, to stop the stem rubbing on it.

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If it was planted in the spring or summer, then I think it's probably drought stress. It only takes a few days for newly planted trees to go from being healthy looking, to looking like that.

 

The others were planted at the optimum time so they've had a better chance to settle in and can cope better.

 

It'll probably come back next year, but won't grow as fast as the others.

 

You might need to cut the top off that stake BTW, to stop the stem rubbing on it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

"Depth wise could be better for its future growth but that's not my problem."

 

:confused1:

 

Does this mean they are buried way deep but you see no connection between deep planting and leaf condition?

 

Suggest you reconsider that.

 

Isn't the tree's problem your problem, or are you not the arborist/tree Dr.?

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