Footlocking?

[nz paul]

Hey everyone, new to the site.Have a few questions regarding footlocking.

Have been climbing for about 5 years and consider my self a competent working climber but have never really got into the whole foot locking thing.Anyone have some pointers?

What type of hitch,knot or device would be used starting off?

I can do the acutal footlocking part just not sure on the setup i should be using in regards to my harness etc..

Can you use any harness for this?Does the knot just attach on to sliding D like normal?i have a tree motion and is that any good for it?

Cheers any help or advice would be great.

nz paul:001_smile:

[Peter]

Hi Paul

 

I use a footlock strop, which is a long loop, tied around both sides of the climbing line with a 6 wrap kleimheist.

 

The loop should reach from your chin to the ground when tied.

 

Use any tree harness, attach to the main ring as usual.

 

Dont forget a figure 8 for getting down again!

[nz paul]

ok so the kleimhiest is acting as friction?if its a strop does it grab the line line a normal friction knot?why could you not come down on that?

cheers

[Peter]

As you ascend the knot should be fairly loose, you dont load it while ascending unless you need a rest, it's purely there as fall arrest. It should be tight enough to grab should you slip though.

 

By strop i just mean an endless loop, like a giant prussic loop, or a length of cord with a large eye one end to form the hitch, and a small eye the other to connect to a carabiner.

 

You cant descend on it as all your weight is on the hitch, unlike a conventional climbing system where only half your weight is on the hitch. If you descend any distance on a footlock strop you will very quickly burn it out, which could easily result in a fall.

[munkymadman]

if you want to simplify footlocking, purchase a double ascender. just clip it on and footlock away. it saves you having to coordinate your footlock with the gripping and ungripping of your hands, plus has alot less resistance than a kleimheist. another tip is to tuck the strop down the front of your top, to prevent the chances of catching it between your knees as you footlock

[Ian150482]

You could just buy a Pantin. I use that, pretty handy little device.

[Peter]

Double ascender is great, but they do need backing up, and they make you lazy. Far better to learn proper technique from the start.

[Ian150482]

Thing i find with footlocking though, is you cant really stop once you start. If you do stop i find the hitch tightens up too much and then its extra effort. ( i know i shouldn't stop)

 

Done properly though and it looks really good.

[Peter]

Use a decent cord for the strop (8mm beeline, 9mm tenex, or icetail) and when you restart after stopping stand in the first lock and slacken off the hitch before continuing.

 

Get the hitch loose enough and it will advance no problem.

[Nick Waring]

Thing i find with footlocking though, is you cant really stop once you start. If you do stop i find the hitch tightens up too much and then its extra effort. ( i know i shouldn't stop)

 

Done properly though and it looks really good.

 

My tutor at college told me if you want a break whilest footlooking, get a lock with your feet and just sit on it. Then if you want wedge yourself between the ropes.