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Operator error and incorrect setup account for a huge percentage of people's gripes with any machine.

 

When I got my mill, I found it wasn't setup right, the guide wheels were out of line, tension wrong etc etc etc.

 

Setup the mill correctly, tension it correctly and change and sharpen the blades regularly and you won't have problems. Try to rush and you will :001_smile:

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i think ,big J has experience with all three types of machine, woodmizer/lumbermate and alaskan,, so I personelly appreciate his honest good reviews,,,

I run a woodmizer Lt40(20yrs old) hydraulic,,,,and await his next chapter with a better mill,,,

 

I,m sure he has and i fully respect his views. I,m a fully qualified mechanical engineer with 30 years experience and 20 years experience of selling and repairing all manner of tools and equipment.

 

I wouldn't compare a mini cooper to a merc :confused1:

 

You can only compare like for like

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When using the Lumbermate, ensure that you are on a very level surface as there is flex in the track, and it's easy to cut bent boards. Also, keep an eye on it as you load the logs, as the machine only weighs 750kg and an enthusiastic log loading can knock it off too.[/QUOT

 

 

Thanks for the advice big j,did you have support legs on the one you used? the one I intend to get has 6 large lege on it and from what I've read about the 2000 is that it can be lowered close to the ground when in use,this should help with any flex in the track and if all else fails it will be down the blacksmiths shop and 2 rsj,s placed underneath:lol:

There is also the price to consider a lot of mill for the price compared to a woodmizer plus the main agent for wales is only 30 miles down the road.

Edited by welsh wood
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It did have the wind down legs, yes, but if on an uneven surface, you might have to chock one or more of them. Load a log too hard and it can knock it off.

 

I very much see what you are saying Dean, I do, but I think the best way to go, if you want to mill any volume of timber is to try to get a more robust machine with hydraulics. I remember questioning their value here when I was first looking for a mill, but I wouldn't be without them now. Also, you can get a lot of days of hydraulic mill hire for the price of a Lumbermate/LT15 etc!

 

Some cheap bandmill options:

 

Bookman's Bandsawmill - Home - starts at a bit over £1000

 

Turner Mills - Ground Models - starts at £3000

 

Thomas 2411 Bandsaw Mill - £2900

 

Loads and loads of USA manufacturers to consider.

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I have a lumbermate, which hardly ever gets used, however once I get a more permanent home for it I will get the back off an old 7.5 or 12 ton curtainsider, the flat floor will keep things more rigid and you can draw the curtain for loading and working. Thay can be picked up quite cheap...

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I recognise this may be outside the scope of work planned, but one observation from working with someone using a hydraulic mill (I hire him and the mill when there's something big needs milling on-site in a day) is that whilst hydraulics are very useful for production volume, they aren't always capable of handling the biggest thing the mill will take on the bed/through the throat.

 

We once milled a 20' long oak butt, 3' at the narrow end and it went on the mill quite happily but we had to use a telehandler to lift and rotate it until we were well over halfway through.

 

Granted you could freehand chainsaw it in half first, or take an Alaskan to it, or reject anything too big for the hydraulics, but my personal feeling at the end of this exercise was that whilst hydraulics are great for nice regular sized stuff, i.e. production milling, for a hired-out milling operation where the customer will typically have small volumes, or handling really big stuff, it may not be so helpful. I know that if I eventually scale up to a bed-based mill I might well go for non-hydraulic and invest the spare cash in something slower but capable of handling really big stuff.

 

Alec

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