Heat acumulator tank on rayburn?

[Tom D]

A few tips for Rayburn users: If you have the 355m and onwards, take out the summer fire bricks altogether, this gives a much faster oven warm up time.

 

If you want a quick heat up to boil the kettle in the morning, put some skinny logs (preferably softwood) in the oven the night before as you close it down, by morning they will be 0% moisture and will flare up really quickly.

 

Clean the boiler regularly, I have a metal spike that I use to scrape the tar off the flue ways in the boiler, only takes 2 mins and is better than waiting till it gums up. you can do it with the fire in if you open the flue right up as the draw stops it smoking. best when the fire is really low though as you can rake out the bottom of the boiler more easily.

[twmarriott]

The matrix in our Esse is knackered. Need to get a new one. Easy to clean though, you just take it out and jetwash it.

 

You are right though, you need really well seasoned wood with an Esse or it's pointless.

 

lol thats a good tip i'll tell the old man, he spends hours with a vacum and brush

[Stereo]

I do that with the hotplate as well and the baffle thingy. Take it outside and give it a good hose down. As long as you are lighting the stove again shortly afterwards, it just dries out in seconds.

[Stereo]

Anyone use 2 wood stoves into one tank? ie T the pipes into the flow and return. Is this possible? Do you need one way valves etc?

 

My accumulator (Gledhill Torrent) is right above the Esse but at the other end of the room (10m or so away) we have a wood burner which can have a boiler fitted or I could replace it for a better one. I'm thinking this would add heat to the accumulator as the Esse doesn't do the full job. The problems I see are that getting 2 sources into one tank and also a long horizontal run of pipe from the wood burner along the wall. Would I need a pump or something?

[Tom D]

Anyone use 2 wood stoves into one tank? ie T the pipes into the flow and return. Is this possible? Do you need one way valves etc?

 

My accumulator (Gledhill Torrent) is right above the Esse but at the other end of the room (10m or so away) we have a wood burner which can have a boiler fitted or I could replace it for a better one. I'm thinking this would add heat to the accumulator as the Esse doesn't do the full job. The problems I see are that getting 2 sources into one tank and also a long horizontal run of pipe from the wood burner along the wall. Would I need a pump or something?

 

Get a neutraliser, I have a dunsely one, it has 11 connections, 5 pairs and a vent: CH, gravity from rayburn, gravity from stove, gas boiler and HWC. works really well, CH and HW can run from any or all of the heat sources. you could stick it under the accumulator.

[Stereo]

Thanks, will check it out.

[openspaceman]

Get a neutraliser, I have a dunsely one, it has 11 connections, 5 pairs and a vent: CH, gravity from rayburn, gravity from stove, gas boiler and HWC. works really well, CH and HW can run from any or all of the heat sources. you could stick it under the accumulator.

 

I've not seen a Dunsley Neutraliser but thought it was a simple device that worked on the hot water density of the hottest supply rising.

 

In effect it is a mini accumulator and as long as each heat source has a dedicated pump they can share the same accumulator. I have to be a bit circumspect here as I'm used to commercial sealed systems not pumped vented systems.

[Spruce]

An advantage of underfloor is that as the weather warms up the temperature difference between room and floor slab decreases so the slab looses less heat and this in turn reduces demand on the heat input. The other big advantage is the room feels warm at a lower temperature because most people are subjectively more comfortable if their feet are warmer than their heads. It's also less clutter on the walls.

 

Disadvantage is builders and plumbers don't like/understand it and it is best suited to buildings in 24/7 occupation because of the long time constant of heating the slab.

 

Another plus point with the underfloor heating is that provided the pipework is laid on top of the insulation before the floor is poured you have several cubic metres of concrete acting as a thermal store. We have underfloor in half the house and rads in the rest all run from an Aarrow boiler stove. The half with the underfloor heating is always lovely and warm in the morning.

 

And another good thing - the underfloor kit works out way cheaper than rads/copper pipework and took two of us about three hours to fit.

[Tom D]

I've not seen a Dunsley Neutraliser but thought it was a simple device that worked on the hot water density of the hottest supply rising.

 

In effect it is a mini accumulator and as long as each heat source has a dedicated pump they can share the same accumulator. I have to be a bit circumspect here as I'm used to commercial sealed systems not pumped vented systems.

 

The boilers don't have to have pumps, I have 2 gravity feed wood boilers linked in and a pumped gas boiler too. The gas comes on first thing to get the rads going when the fires are sleeping. and if we go on holiday it keeps the chill of the house.

[Stereo]

Is your gas boiler a standard one ie not a combi? At the mo we have a gleddhill torrent accumulator with underfloor heating. The esse is the main heat source and we have our original gas combi running through a coil in the tank which keeps it to min temp. There is also a solar coil so far unused.

 

What I would rather do is run the main body of water through 2 wood stoves and a gas boiler.