357xp new piston kit

[polish pete]

hi,

i've put new piston kit but...

first it worked ok for a while but then it started revving up a lot, later it took ages to start it and i head to keep throttle on all the time to keep it going.

i relaced a gasket- same thing, i looked into carburator, there was a bit of crap inside, so cleaned it.

now- i can't start the saw without holding full throttle. i played with low and throttle screws but still the same. if i hold throttle when starting the saw sounds pretty good but once i stop revving it dies straight away.

do you have any idea where to look? to me it has to be something with petrol rather than air but i don't know too much about it.

cheers

[GardenKit]

hi,

i've put new piston kit but...

first it worked ok for a while but then it started revving up a lot, later it took ages to start it and i head to keep throttle on all the time to keep it going.

i relaced a gasket- same thing, i looked into carburator, there was a bit of crap inside, so cleaned it.

now- i can't start the saw without holding full throttle. i played with low and throttle screws but still the same. if i hold throttle when starting the saw sounds pretty good but once i stop revving it dies straight away.

do you have any idea where to look? to me it has to be something with petrol rather than air but i don't know too much about it.

cheers

Have you checked the piston again, it sounds a lot like a failed piston due to lean sieze.

I hope its not after all your effort, but did you find the cause of the original siezure?

[spudulike]

If the original piston had seized then ALL the aliminium transfer has to be removed from the bore, this isn't a simple job to do correctly but if it is done well, it will give you a better repair than using an aftermarket P&C kit.

 

If the transfer was left on the bore, you will have killed the rings and possibly scored the new piston - pop off the muffler and take a look.

 

As Barrie said - have you found the original cause of failure, the 357 usually suffers air leaks around the carb boot and especially around the impulse connector on the inlet boot. Has the inlet boot got the better metal retaining clip around it or the plastic one - the metal one is better and was a recall fitment. If it is the EPA model, the auto decomp valve is the devil incarnate and should be disposed of and replaced with the standard one and the crank valve sealed.

 

Others may disagree but they don't know squat:thumbup: