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What would you do - hung up wind blown content


hardtop110
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You cut through the hinge, and your back cut wasn't level. It actually goes quite low on the right hand side. Also, the bottom of your gob would have been better if it was flat instead of slanting down. I am bearing in mind you don't do it very often, but if I'm going to critique one thing, I might as well point out all the flaws. Top marks for having a go and not killing yourself.

 

If I'm honest though, I'd say that went so far off the intended line as to be nearly considered dangerous. Hope you ran away at 45 degrees from the tree.

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Thanks for the crit guys. My retreat was hasty. I thought my initial gob cut was wide enough as I could feel the bar being pinched. It's clear the back cut wasn't level. It's easy to see after the fact. I'm surprised the tree didn't fall before I cut through the hinge, given it was under such tension with the winch.

 

Would under cutting the hinge by so little on one side wholly affect the fall direction?

 

 

I agree wholeheartedly. It was way more dangerous than safe.

 

I don't plan to do any more felling, this was a one of.

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Well I gotta say well done for getting it down and not damaging any property but mainly not damaging yourself.:thumbup1:

 

But, you were very very lucky it didnt flatten you looking at the hinge/gob etc. When you cut through the hinge they can easily go sideways like it did.

 

I'm sorry but I would chalk this one up to luck more than anything.

 

What you needed to do was get a nice level back cut just above the bottom cut of the gob and leave a nice big bit of hinge. Then start giving it a bit more on the winch until it came over,maybe with a bit of nibbling of the back cut if needed.

 

The odd wedge wouldnt go a miss plus you need to know how much of a hinge to leave etc.

 

Anyway alls well that ends well.:thumbup:

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What you needed to do was get a nice level back cut just above the bottom cut of the gob and leave a nice big bit of hinge.

 

 

not wanting to pick too much but i would disagree, level or upto half a cm below the hinge, especially in that case... that way the hinge doesn't crack when the tree goes over meaning the hinge controls the tree all the way down and if done right the tree will almost always still be attached to the stump (unless you fell it high up)... if you have your back cut above the hinge the fibres break and let the weight of the tree do the rest of the work,

 

cutting level or below allows the fibres to hold on, so even less chance of it going sideways, cutting above allows it brake making it often easier when snedding to roll the tree as it doesnt require another cut to get it loose from the stump or when you want the tree, branch, top etc to jump off. e.g you dont what big chogs hanging on too much so back cut goes above...

 

as for a really wide hinge, not entirely needed a tree that size a hinge of 2cm thick would do the trick and certainly you wouldn't need more than 3cm, (for the mechanics of it....the psychology of it that's a different matter)

 

i apologise for the rant but it does irk me abit when people insist you must put your back cut above the hinge and never below, and its a flaw with the training in CS31 imop,

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It's a Tirfor. I bought it at the auction mart in Kirkwall Orkney for £30 or so. Couldn't believe how expensive they were when I checked out the RRP.

 

I gave it to a friend when I moved south, before I found a dozen uses I could put it to. He kindly posted it down for me. It's a great piece of kit, and more versatile than a vehicle mounted winch, when access is restricted.

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not wanting to pick too much but i would disagree, level or upto half a cm below the hinge, especially in that case... that way the hinge doesn't crack when the tree goes over meaning the hinge controls the tree all the way down and if done right the tree will almost always still be attached to the stump (unless you fell it high up)... if you have your back cut above the hinge the fibres break and let the weight of the tree do the rest of the work,

 

cutting level or below allows the fibres to hold on, so even less chance of it going sideways, cutting above allows it brake making it often easier when snedding to roll the tree as it doesnt require another cut to get it loose from the stump or when you want the tree, branch, top etc to jump off. e.g you dont what big chogs hanging on too much so back cut goes above...

 

as for a really wide hinge, not entirely needed a tree that size a hinge of 2cm thick would do the trick and certainly you wouldn't need more than 3cm, (for the mechanics of it....the psychology of it that's a different matter)

 

i apologise for the rant but it does irk me abit when people insist you must put your back cut above the hinge and never below, and its a flaw with the training in CS31 imop,

 

 

No need to. Tbh it's some new info that I haven't heard before or seen done.:thumbup1:

 

I was always taught just above and that's all I've ever seen people do.

 

As they say about something new everyday.:thumbup:

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mcmoonter, I have followed your thread with interest. Yes you got away with it, where I didn't! Like you, I'm not a tree feller but as a logger I now use chainsaws regularly, on the ground. Did my CS30 many years ago.

A few years ago I was persuaded, and foolishly agreed to take down a poplar tree for a friend, on a very windy day. Friend & his son (both big guys) on a rope pulling in the intended direction of fall. Big open grassy target area. Nice directional felling cut (gob) & back cut just a little higher. As the tree started to move I called for them to pull & I powered in with the saw. Tree went off at a right angle, with the wind, into next doors garden. Smashed fence, crushed shrubs, floods of tears from Mrs next door & huge embarrassment on my part. I had cut through the hinge.

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