mcmoonter

I thought it would be tight. I don’t fancy the dropped tailgate solution, I’d be sure to attract the boys in blue as I pass Police hq on deliveries.

Thinking of a bulk bag delivery truck, currently using a trailer, which can be tight getting into narrow driveways with parked cars. I was thinking a HiCap Defender might have the load capacity, but would two bulk bags fit in the bed?

Hardwood logs and cordwood, can also uplift with Land Rover and fourteenth foot Ifor Williams trailer from job site within fifteen miles of KY2 5UT

Thats probably a better alternative than driving for miles with the saw. Thanks

Thanks for the input guys. I had a bad experience at my local Stihl agent which put me off even going back to ask for advice. Thankfully on that occasion I managed to retrieve my saw in bits and rebuild it at minimal expense. While I'm here can anyone recommend a good Indy saw engineer in Fife or the central belt of Scotland for future reference? I can can keep the new spares in a drawer for a rainy day or I might have a scout around for a fixer upper

My MS200T has a fair bit of crank float (side to side not up and down). What I can see of the bore and the piston looks to be in good condition. Compression still good. Rather than risk damaging what is a reasonable saw for the want of a couple of bearings, seals and gaskets, I'm going to strip it down and replace them along with some new rings while I'm in there. In anticipation of the parts arriving, I need some advice on a couple of things. What at is the best way to remove the flywheel? What at is the best way to press/pull the bearings and seals into place? Should I use any sealer (if so, what type? ) to the seals to help install and seal them Should I heat the crankcase / freeze the bearings to get them to fit more easily? Should I use any sealer on the gasket between the crank case halves? (Again if so, what type?) I've worked on lots of car engines in the past, but I've never stripped and rebuilt a two stroke chainsaw engine before. Any advice would be welcome. Thanks, Peter

I've got some pruning to do on some Chestnut trees. Some of the branches are six to eight inches in diameter. I'm not a tree climber so the next safest route I think will be a manual pole saw. I've had a quick look online at offerings by Silky and Stein and cant figure out what would best suit my needs against cost. Pole length would need to be up to 6m to reach the highest branches. It's something that I could get a fair bit of use out of but nowhere as much as a pro would. So, budget would be somewhere higher than DIY but lower than everyday pro use saw.

I whipped the exhaust off, the port had only a tiny amount of carbon lining it, the muffler was spotless. I'll try adjusting the carb tomorrow. I need to run it for half an hour or so to get it repeat the fault. It's starting to snow.

Not yet, I'll try that.

No, it's a two stroke older model

I'm having trouble with my leaf blower. It starts fine from cold, runs well thereafter, but stopping it and then trying to restart it is impossible. Checking the plug reveals that it's bone dry. Spark is good. I've changed the fuel filter, the fuel tank cap (Google suggested blocked breather in the cap) and a new plug. I've ordered a new carb kit, still waiting for it to arrive. I bought a new ignition module too, but the spark seems fine so haven't fitted it yet. I've stripped and blown out the carb and fuel line. I'm running out of ideas, where should I look next? Cheers, Peter

Bingo! Found it, thanks.

I will need to have another look in the morning. I gave the top a clean up with a wire brush and some emery paper but couldn't see the hole. Must try harder. Thanks, I'll report back.

I bought a used FS 450 strimmer. The old head needs replacing, but It didn't come with a manual and I can't see an obvious way to remove it. YouTube vids show on smaller models a pin which slots into a locking point from where you can unscrew the head. I can see any similar thing on mine. So, how do it get it off?

A few years ago I made a log splitter, it worked well and I've split tons of wood with it. https://picasaweb.google.com/113038090087066024057/20110226LogSplitter A friend is inspired to build one. He has a JCB 8015 mini digger which might be possible to use as the hydraulic power source, he has also savaged a couple of rams from another machine which he has since scrapped. Has anyone (home) made a splitter that mounts either to the digger arm or is free standing that uses the diggers hydraulics. Pics would be helpful Thanks in advance, Peter

I reassembled everything, ensuring the shaft was properly located and the bolts clamping the to the shaft were tight and it works! Thanks for your help on this.

Genius. So the drive shaft just slips out. That would save a lot of bother. The machine has never given any indication of clutch wear, so you may well be on to something. I will report back.

The square drives in both he gear head and the visible portion into the bell housing look to be in tact. The inner shaft faces looked to be good at both ends too. Before I stripped it, there was no drive to the gear head at all, the engine just revved like it was in neutral. I will give it a running bench test with the inner shaft visible in the morning.

Thanks Doobin. I managed to disconnect the lower portion of the cowl to be left with just the 'bell housing' left still attatched to the engine. I found a PDF which showed a bearing mounted into the bell housing retained by a circlip. I removed the circlip but can't see a way to pull the bell housing clear to reveal the clutch. Is there anything you can suggest?

I was using the strimmer today and it very briefly started to vibrate then the head stopped revolving and the revs went up. I thought immediately that the gearbox had gone at the head. I removed it and it seems to be fine. I also pulled out the long drive shaft and it too seems to be in tact. When I revolve it inside the long housing there is no resistance at the engine suggesting that clutch has broken. Is this a fair assessment? I set to removing the cowling at the engine along with the carb. I pulled the four screws which hold the plastic / rubber vibration mounting from the engine, but I can't seem to split it. Two questions. Am I along the right lines with the clutch diagnosis? How do I spit the shaft / housing from the engine. Three questions, a bit like the Spanish inquisitors Will I need any special tools to remove and refit the clutch? Thanks Peter

Thanks for that guys, Rowena were really helpful.

Damn. I set to carefully dismantling the carb, sorting out the parts on a sheet of cardboard. Somehow I've lost a tiny spring. So I'm going to need to find a rebuild kit for a TK carb with the serial number DPR11-1 cast into the side. It was fitted to a Kawasaki TH43 strimmer of unknown vintage. Google isn't helping too much, can anyone point me in the direction of someone who may stock parts. Cheers MC.

Here a mine, it's our only source of heating, so I've had to stock up.

I will take a picture and get some more accurate dimensions to give you more of an idea. Thanks for your help on this guys.

Thanks Alec I only have the one tree that needs milling. It's a car's length from a good road. I was hoping to have it cut into four of the biggest posts possible, no other planking. I've got a big Ifor Williams trailer so transport to the sawmill at Inzievar wouldnt be too big a problem, though having it sawn on site is preferrable. Storing for seasoning shouldn't be too difficult. How long would you store posts before construction. Is there anyone in Fife or near on here I could contact for a quote?