MS180, worth a new pot?

[Daniël Bos]

Hi all, have been given an MS180 some time ago with the exhaust broken off. The lugs for the bolts have sheared off and taken part of the exhaust port with it. The cylinder itself was not damaged. I took it to an engineer mate who welded the broken bit back on and filed out the port to the original spec after welding. It ran great for a while and was really usefull as a back-up saw when hedgelaying. I'd use it with a 10" carving bar on to get int awkward spots and make curvy cuts.

The weld did not last though, and it's snapped off again.

I'd be happy to spend a few quid on it to make it right again, £35 for a new pot about right?

 

But wich one do I buy, is there much difference?

An oem one would be out of budget I think but I have no idea of quality of aftermarket ones.

Should I also put new rings on it?

 

Thanks, Daniel

[Tom2020]

Just buy a new one you can get a ms171 for £136.50 From the Fr jones gang Cracking little saws the 171 and 180.

[spudulike]

The MS180 has a clam type crankcase meaning the whole engine has to come out to attach the new cylinder - the mating surfaces also need cleaning and resealing and can be a bit of a job - if you are confident and have the time then you may learn a bit.

 

Be aware that the flywheel and cluch also need removing - these saws are not the easiest to work on for a novice if that is what you are:thumbdown:

[Daniël Bos]

Just buy a new one you can get a ms171 for £136.50 From the Fr jones gang Cracking little saws the 171 and 180.

Thanks Tom,

The ms181 (surely that would be the equivalent?) is £185 inc vat, so with a bit of effort I could save £150! It just seems a shame to chuck it for the sake of £35 as it was a lovely little saw!

 

 

The MS180 has a clam type crankcase meaning the whole engine has to come out to attach the new cylinder - the mating surfaces also need cleaning and resealing and can be a bit of a job - if you are confident and have the time then you may learn a bit.

 

Be aware that the flywheel and cluch also need removing - these saws are not the easiest to work on for a novice if that is what you are:thumbdown:

Thanks Spud

 

I am a total novice, but wrangling the engine out was quite simple last time I did it (to have it welded) I did not take the cylinder off then though.., Would this require expert tools/knowledge?

And do you reckon the one from mister solutions (what a pants bussiness name!) will be the one to go for or are there others?

[spudulike]

It doesn't require any specialist tools other than a Torx 27 drive to dismantle and reassemble but personally I always check the seal between the upper and lower cranckase assembly with a pressure gauge - if you get a leak it will cause some bad problems.

 

I have done one of these and they are not as simple as vertical split crankcases but if you have pulled the engine out before then you have done well - I can't rememember if the flywheel must come off but the clutch etc must removed but if it has been off recently, should be easy to shift.

 

From memory, I think the four bolts that join the crankcases together also join the engine to the plastic saw body and the sealing between parts is important.

 

I know the guy that runs Mister Solutions - their P&C kits are as good as any - GHS (Garden Hire Spares) and ARB Ireland are also worth considering.

[Tom2020]

The 181 and 171 I would say are the same saw to me. I have both and used both no difference. If your up for the challenge of swapping the pots do it, If you a tight git sod it get it over and done with.

[JAMIE1]

From memory, I think the four bolts that join the crankcases together also join the engine to the plastic saw body and the sealing between parts is important.

 

The four bolts that hold the cylinder into the plastic housing are not the ones that hold the cylinder to the crank pan. There are four more shorter bolts that hold the cylinder to the crank pan, This setup makes it lots easier to get a good seal and test before you re-assemble it back in to the palstic housing. The Ms210 to 250 should have been built with this arrangement as it would have made life easier.

[spudulike]

The four bolts that hold the cylinder into the plastic housing are not the ones that hold the cylinder to the crank pan. There are four more shorter bolts that hold the cylinder to the crank pan, This setup makes it lots easier to get a good seal and test before you re-assemble it back in to the palstic housing. The Ms210 to 250 should have been built with this arrangement as it would have made life easier.

 

It's been a while since I have had one appart, generally it isn't worth spending the hours reparing the saws unless you have time on your hands so tend to avoid them and stick to the Pro saws. the four extra screws will indeed make the job much easier:thumbup:

 

Good learning curve for the uninitiated though - just done a 023 for someone - not a bad runner now and that had the four screw fixing.