logosol big mill lsg problems

[Rob Stringer]

hello all, took my big mill lsg out for the first time recently to mill some oak into slabs. Spent a lot of time fiddling about to set it up and then when I used it was having trouble with the press plate that holds the tip of the chainsaw guide bar in place. It was either not holding the bar in place so the tip was moving about or if I tightened it smoke was coming from the area:001_huh:. Was quite a disappointing day and all I had to show for it were a couple of rough boards and a knackered guide bar. Was wondering if anyone on here uses the big mill lsg sucessfully and could shed light on what i'm doing wrong (i've followed the instructions in the manual etc.)?

[davidb]

Rob,

 

I am not following what the issues was any chance of a photo? l am in Woking and have a big mill and m7 woodworkers so if you want to pop over maybe l can help.

[davidb]

Just re read is the bar diving into the log putting pressure on the nose?

[davidb]

or are the two logosol guide bars fitting flush on the four brackets if not the chain bar nose could be twisting as you go along the guide bars

[Rob Stringer]

thanks for the replies. Tried cutting with the saw unattached and it was hooking downwards so this could have been the problem (I packed up at this point!). Not using guide-rails, using a plank as a guide to start and then the sawn surface of the log. I also have an m7 which is much easier to use! Only got the lsg kit for slabbing logs which are too big to roll onto the m7, just want to make sure I get everything right next time as the guide-bars are expensive to replace. Really frustrating as, to start with, it looked like i'd get some nice oak boards cut but ran into problems very quickly.

[Rob D]

If the saw is cutting crooked when using on it's own then this needs to be sorted first.

 

Can be to a worn guide bar or the chain not sharpened correctly or a combo of both.

 

If the chain is pulling one way it creates huge pressure on the bar on one side, this causes the bar to wear rapidly on that side = pulls more in that direction and causes the problem to worsen.

 

I've had a mill cutting fine (or so I thought) at the beginning of the log only to get near the end and have it jammed tight where the bar is pulling down in the cut.

 

Solution really is to get a new guide bar, new chain and new drive sprocket. Of course this is expensive but so's your time....

[Rob Stringer]

I

I've had a mill cutting fine (or so I thought) at the beginning of the log only to get near the end and have it jammed tight where the bar is pulling down in the cut.

 

Solution really is to get a new guide bar, new chain and new drive sprocket. Of course this is expensive but so's your time....

Sounds about right unfortunately.

[aswales]

Just a quick note to add, be carefull when clamping over the sprocket nose that the clamp is centered on the sprocket (nose wheel) rivets, otherwise you will squeeze the sprocket with the outer leaves of the guide bar. Its also worth noting that solid guide bars rather than laminated are better for this scenario, they are stiffer and are available from a number of chainsaw milling suppliers. With a new bar and chain it is worth manually adding some chain oil to the bar groove when fitting the chain, milling is very demanding on lubrication and can produce a lot of heat. As you get through the log, its worth tapping in a few wedges at appropriate points to stop the cut plank pinching the chain , throwing things offline etc