husky 353 chain running at idle

[sussexlad]

hey guys, new to this so apologies if there is already a thread on this.

the chain on my 353 is running along at idle, at a fair pace. i changed the clutch a few weeks ago (non genuine part replacement) so didnt think it would be that. the saw seems to be running pretty rich at the mo, bit smoky and plug is pretty sooty. but at the same time, the clutch cover, bar and chain all get very hot whilst running, i burnt my fingers taking the chain off the other day.

this is why its confusing:confused1: is the clutch etc getting hot compensating for something else...im in over my head and the more i think about it i get more clueless! so im appealling to you fine gentlemen (or ladies?) for your expert knowledge and help.

many thanks in advance

[RobRainford]

Adjust the carb, if you are nearby a dealer get them to set the carb up for you, they will probably set the chain too. It needs to be leaned off a bit. Covers and bars and chains will dpget hot, usually not burn your fingers hot though.

 

Are there springs in the clutch? There should be.

 

If the chain hasn't been tightened already, do that, too much will cause friction and will cause burrs on the bar guide rails. Too little and you get 'slap' from the chain underneath the nose sprocket and above the drive sprocket on the bar.

 

What chain oil are you using?

[spudulike]

The chain and clutch will be getting hot if the chain is blunt or the oiler isn't working well - those will cause this, the cover may get hot if the brake band is rubbing on the clutch but is unlikely with the chain running at idle problem you have.

 

The chain running at idle could be a number of things, normally I would say the clutch springs are shagged but unlikely if you have fitted a replacement unless it is faulty. The other reason can be a gunked up sprocket bearing or clutch.

 

You haven't said if your saw is running at normal idle speed or not but if the carb has been set to run excessivly rich at idle, it may be a sign of an air leak and a rich carb setting to keep the revs down personally, I would take the carb back to factory settings and see what this does to the idle, if you can't bring the idle down you have a bad airleak - had a Jonsered 630 like that - crankcase seal was shot. Have you issues with your idle?

[Chris Sheppard]

Can't help any more than anyone else has but what I have found is the 353's are heavy on clutch springs. Mine has always been like it and I know of at least two others the same.

 

No one seems to have an answer as to why when they share the same clucth as some of the other saws, including the 346 which doesn't seem to eat springs

 

Why did you need to replace the whole clutch? My 353's around 7 years old now and has been pushed fairly hard in thinnings and is still on it's original clutch (I'd hazard a guess it's had 15 or so clutch springs in that time though )

[sussexlad]

thanks for quick replies guys. chain is kept to good tension, filed the bar the other day, and am using husky oil.

also chain kept sharp and oiler is working well. my intial thought was clutch but it looks ok, the c springs are all intact and doesnt look damaged in anyway, the only bit there i havnt changed in a while is the clutch housing.

ive had the saw for about 3 years using pretty much everyday for felling/logging and not touched the carb myself in that time as its always run fine. i did have a little fiddle with the carb today just to see, but im not to great with that side of things, but it didnt seem to make any difference at idle. it still seems to run fine and this is the first time ive had issues with the saw, an air leak doesnt sound good!

[sussexlad]

Can't help any more than anyone else has but what I have found is the 353's are heavy on clutch springs. Mine has always been like it and I know of at least two others the same.

 

No one seems to have an answer as to why when they share the same clucth as some of the other saws, including the 346 which doesn't seem to eat springs

 

Why did you need to replace the whole clutch? My 353's around 7 years old now and has been pushed fairly hard in thinnings and is still on it's original clutch (I'd hazard a guess it's had 15 or so clutch springs in that time though )

 

maybe its a crap relacement clutch, i just replaced the whole thing as lip that hold the spring in place had snapped off, and i didnt realise you could replace them in bits!

[spudulike]

maybe its a crap relacement clutch, i just replaced the whole thing as lip that hold the spring in place had snapped off, and i didnt realise you could replace them in bits!

Difficult to tell if it is the clutch but if the idle is correct and the chain is moving then it points toward the clutch. If the saws idle is playing up and the revs can't be brought down using the idle screw then and the "L" screw is two or more turns out to compensate it points toward an airleak but is less likely.

[sussexlad]

Difficult to tell if it is the clutch but if the idle is correct and the chain is moving then it points toward the clutch. If the saws idle is playing up and the revs can't be brought down using the idle screw then and the "L" screw is two or more turns out to compensate it points toward an airleak but is less likely.

 

i will have another look today, but there is no idle screw on my saw only H and L, on these 2 screws, there are plastic bits that prevent them being turned more than about 3/4 of a turn.

[spudulike]

i will have another look today, but there is no idle screw on my saw only H and L, on these 2 screws, there are plastic bits that prevent them being turned more than about 3/4 of a turn.

 

Take a look at this - http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Husqvarna%20353.pdf

 

The saw MUST have a H&L screw close side by side and an Idle screw as on slide "G" - there are only a few saws where the L mixture screw also adjusts the idle and none of the pro saws.

 

The plastic bits are to stop the un-initiated - we shall call them "numptys", adjusting the mix and seizing their engines. I usually prize them off but they do have their place.

 

The saw should be idleing around 2,800rpm but if you have experience, you should be able to know if the idle is too high.

By ear, you adjust the idle down to a point where the engine may stall and then increase it a little but not enough that the clutch is catching the sprocket or spinning the chain.

 

Find the adjuster - you do have one!

[sussexlad]

Take a look at this - http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Husqvarna%20353.pdf

 

The saw MUST have a H&L screw close side by side and an Idle screw as on slide "G" - there are only a few saws where the L mixture screw also adjusts the idle and none of the pro saws.

 

The plastic bits are to stop the un-initiated - we shall call them "numptys", adjusting the mix and seizing their engines. I usually prize them off but they do have their place.

 

The saw should be idleing around 2,800rpm but if you have experience, you should be able to know if the idle is too high.

By ear, you adjust the idle down to a point where the engine may stall and then increase it a little but not enough that the clutch is catching the sprocket or spinning the chain.

 

Find the adjuster - you do have one!

 

hi so bit of an update, that diagram was great, yep turns out the idle screw was staring me straight in the face the whole time!! i have brought down the idle revs and it is alot better, still creeping slightly, but vastly improved. i may replace the clutch again just to start on level playing field so i know where i stand. anyway thanks for the help, much appreciated!