husky 353 intermittent fast idle

[Chris Sheppard]

my trusty 353 has developed a bit of an odd symptom in that it'll be running fine and then intermittently develop a fast idle which might last a minute or two, or might last the rest of the tank, and doesn't do it all the time - might be fine for a couple of days or might do it a few times a day.

 

The speed isn't high enough to start the chain creeping but is definitely a lot faster than it should be and isn't something silly liek the throttle sticking.

 

I've always used the same 2 stroke oil in it and always used the same mix.

 

It's a 2004 model and initially had quite a hard life thinning every day but it's always kept going with very little work needed doing. I am planning to replace it shortly but would like to try and keep it going a bit longer.

 

I did wonder if it might be an air leak maybe, but didn't think this would show itself intermittently

 

anyone got any suggestions for what to have a look at?

[Petemate390xp]

i would think its Air or carb prob...be prepared for can of worms.

[Tom D]

carb, i'd say. My 357 did somethig similar, it got worse untill it would stall and then be a bugger to start. New carb sorted it.... until that went the same way..

[Chris Sheppard]

i would think its Air or carb prob...be prepared for can of worms.

 

carb, i'd say. My 357 did somethig similar, it got worse untill it would stall and then be a bugger to start. New carb sorted it.... until that went the same way..

 

Bum - that's kinda confirming what I was kinda hoping it wouldn't be

 

Just bought a forwarding trailer and had our offer accepted on our first house too so the new saw funds a bit low

Edited May 27, 2011 by Chris Sheppard

[spudulike]

Not done a 353 but if it is anything like the 357, the most common fault is an air leak around the rubber carb boot - be careful as this can seize the saw if using for any length of time flat out.

 

Usual fix is to lop off the plastic clip and put in either a Husqvarna metal clip or I prefer a small jubilee clip - I usually seal the thing with a smear of gasket seal as well.

 

If you get stuck and want a pressure check and repair then send the saw down to me and I will turn it round ASAP. Parcels2go do a courier service for a good value £6.50.

 

New saw - nah - it is a bit like changing your car because it needs an oil filter and oil change!!

 

It may be worth turning the H screw counter clockwise by 1/4 turn until you have it fixed - that may save you £150 - £200:thumbup:

[Chris Sheppard]

Not done a 353 but if it is anything like the 357, the most common fault is an air leak around the rubber carb boot - be careful as this can seize the saw if using for any length of time flat out.

 

Usual fix is to lop off the plastic clip and put in either a Husqvarna metal clip or I prefer a small jubilee clip - I usually seal the thing with a smear of gasket seal as well.

 

If you get stuck and want a pressure check and repair then send the saw down to me and I will turn it round ASAP. Parcels2go do a courier service for a good value £6.50.

 

New saw - nah - it is a bit like changing your car because it needs an oil filter and oil change!!

 

It may be worth turning the H screw counter clockwise by 1/4 turn until you have it fixed - that may save you £150 - £200:thumbup:

 

Cheers for the pointers

 

They're more liek the 346 than a 357 if that makes any odds?

[tree_beard]

i believe earlier 353/346's had a plastic carb boot clamp that was later replaced with a more robust metal clamp.

 

could be an air leak that kicks in when the saw warms up, make sure you dont have any loose bolts (crankcase, cylinder, carb)...

 

(if you must run it) mebbe richen her up and regularly check plug colour until you get to the bottom of the problem.

 

good luck, nice saw, had one for years

[spudulike]

Yes - just realised that - just got a 346 in that I want to port and muffler mod - the carb boots are all very similar 345,346, 353, 350, 357 - think Husky flipped when they fitted the plastic clip - don't get me wrong, I love these saws but that part is better replaced with a jubillee clip type fastner.

 

I always do this as a matter of course before the dreaded idle problems and impending seizure of both man and machine

[spudulike]

i believe earlier 353/346's had a plastic carb boot clamp that was later replaced with a more robust metal clamp.

 

could be an air leak that kicks in when the saw warms up, make sure you dont have any loose bolts (crankcase, cylinder, carb)...

 

(if you must run it) mebbe richen her up and regularly check plug colour until you get to the bottom of the problem.

 

good luck, nice saw, had one for years

 

Good advice - think you must hang around the same places I do:thumbup1:

[Chris Sheppard]

Bit of an update:

 

richened it up a bit to allow a bit of safety margin and have been keeping an ear on it. it seems as though it only ever does it when the tank is around half empty, and nearly always at the same fuel level, and the revs it sits at are just the same as you get just before you run out of fuel (can you see where I'm heading) - haven't had a look yet but, would a pinhole in the fuel line give a similar effect if it was sucking air in above th efuel level?

 

Need to do a bit of fettling at it this week anyway as the part of the front handle which applies the chainbrake has chewed up a bit and won't click the chainbrake on, so will get round to swapping the plastic clip for a metal one then too.