First timer and some questions

[_tc]

Hello, I have a chainsaw mill and have today just done my first mill of some standing dead cherry I took down about 6 months ago.

I was expecting a rough ish finish but I have definate bar marks in the planks, mainly towards the last 1/3 of the plank. I am using a stihl 066 with new 36" bar and chipper chain. Would a ripper chain stop this or is it just more practice on my behalf?

I have some chunky oak to do and some dead elm but wanted to ask this before I go any further.

Ed

This

To this

[Cracker]

I've only ever used ripping chain and the finish has been really good. In my experience the chain is critical. Without a sharp ripping chain you'll waste a lot of everything...timber, chain oil, fuel and your time.

[TrollSpiel]

Did you cut that with a SPOON?

 

Hey mr, I've found it's all about the feel. You'll sus it. My first boards were bloody awful, and I'm still getting the hang - esp solo with a 48" bar at chest height on 1m wide boards!

 

Can I say, don't use timber for your first guide cut. I did that, and all the warp and twist in the old board I used was transferred to all my timber. I also found, the wider the guide you use, the better. Ladders! Can't beat em. I either use L brackets I screwed to them, or drilled down thru the steps to hold it all solid and level.

 

I've also found a pref for milling slightly downhill.

 

I don't know about other millers, but my boards aren't perfect or without scoremarks. Sometimes even something nastier where I've been too heavy handed 'tip' end and put a gouge out of the board edge. But I've a nice workshop and lots of nice finishing machinery, so I don't mind too much.

 

Chains? I'm not knocking the granberg chains, but I've found a pref for the standard Oregon cut at milling degrees - they just rip it up on my 880. It may be that I didn't really know what I was doing with that other chain, but I found the clearing teeth dulled quick and got a shiny edge - I was new to it then, I will try them again, I suggest you do.

 

All I can say again is, Setup is everything. Take your time, use a good guide - few more goes and you'll be knocking out some super boards.

[ray s]

practice and more practice, you'll get them spot on in the end.

have a look on the net and you'll find a couple of companies selling ripping chain at good prices, i've got a ms880 with 36" bar and i got 2 ripping chains for about £34. and they're genuine stihl. and as trollspiel says use a ladder for the first cut , makes it far more accurate

[burrell_]

i use a 66 for milling and find the Granberg Ripping Chain the best one pm Rob D on here or u will get his number on the alaskan mills site give rob a call he have never put me wrong (top bloke) hope that helps u mate

cheer martin

alaskan mill I home of the portable chainsaw mill

[_tc]

Ok had another go today and this is the outcome. Much better and I had a mate help guide the mill along. I plan to make a table out of this Oak but have never really worked with wood so always looking out for deigns to copy ish.

I painted the ends if it looks funny.

[delabodge]

hi just a tip mate,,its so important you sticker your timber properly, every 12inches,with dry stickers,,this will limit warping, make sure the stickers are the same size,,good luck,

[agg221]

Rough marks in the last third indicates that the plank you were using as a guide flexed down in the middle of the cut.

 

You can't mill deeper than the mill is set, but you can mill higher (thinner). If the plank flexes, on the 'downhill' part, it tries to drive deeper into the log, so nothing happens. Once your'e round the curve, it tries to lift up, so you get bar marks.

 

Ladders are great, if you're milling in your own yard or have a decent roofrack. Otherwise, if you plan on working 'off piste' then bolting together 5ft lengths of box section aluminium works very well.

 

Alec

[Ian Leach]

Might me a silly question but are you wedging it as you go along ?? I ask this because there are more bar marks on the last bit you are cutting and if not the weight of the wood would be pressing on the bar, hence the marks at the end of wood.

 

Just a thought:001_smile: