Geeky chainsaw ponder...

[Xerxses]

Thinking of getting a MS261 with a 18" bar, what ya reckon?

 

Oregon bar, 0.325, 1,6mm, 22BPX

Stihl bar 3/8, 1,3mm, PMC3

 

What do you think of the difference in performance?

[morten]

Thinking of getting a MS261 with a 18" bar, what ya reckon?

 

Oregon bar, 0.325, 1,6mm, 22BPX

Stihl bar 3/8, 1,3mm, PMC3

 

What do you think of the difference in performance?

 

An 18" bar on an MS261 is pushing its capacity, in my opinion. My advice is to stick with the 15" bar, and have a larger saw (441/660) for the bigger "stuff".

 

If you feel you absolutely have to be able to put a longer (18") bar on the 261, I would stick with the .325 type chain/bar, as a change in chain type will require that you change the sprocket over, as well.

 

The only reason to change to a 3/8" Low Profile (Stihl PMC/Picco) chain, would be that it requires less power from the saw. But it makes changing bars a LOT more time consuming, and I don't assume you'll want to use the 18" bar as your primary bar on the 261.

 

Another disadvantage with using a low profile (Picco) chain on a long bar is that the narrow kerf will increase the tendency to make the saw get stuck.

[Xerxses]

An 18" bar on an MS261 is pushing its capacity, in my opinion. My advice is to stick with the 15" bar, and have a larger saw (441/660) for the bigger "stuff".

 

If you feel you absolutely have to be able to put a longer (18") bar on the 261, I would stick with the .325 type chain/bar, as a change in chain type will require that you change the sprocket over, as well.

 

The only reason to change to a 3/8" Low Profile (Stihl PMC/Picco) chain, would be that it requires less power from the saw. But it makes changing bars a LOT more time consuming, and I don't assume you'll want to use the 18" bar as your primary bar on the 261.

 

Another disadvantage with using a low profile (Picco) chain on a long bar is that the narrow kerf will increase the tendency to make the saw get stuck.

 

Well I was thinking of having the bar as my primary one so the sprocket wouldnt need changing around... the idea behind the 0.325 would be to compensate for the long bar...but would 0,05 mm in cutting edge make up for it?

The possitive side with a long bar would be reach and not nessesary logging. The benefit would be for limbing. The lighter saw would be easier on your arms...361 is a tad heavy to be swinging around all day. It would also be nice up in the tree for big stuff.

Why would it increase the risk of getting stuck? Surely the bar thickness and kerf ratio is similar between the two Bars/chains?

 

As for a big saw, I do have a Husky 372XP with a longbar for the bigger trunks...

Edited February 5, 2011 by Xerxses

[TimberCutterDartmoor]

15" max on that, 13" best.

[morten]

Why would it increase the risk of getting stuck? Surely the bar thickness and kerf ratio is similar between the two Bars/chains?

 

I must admit, that I don't understand why you prefer an 18" bar to a 15" bar for general limbing/snedding, when you already have a larger saw. Ergonomics, safety and saw-balance dictates using a shorter bar. My preferred bar size is 13"

 

W.r.t. the Low Profile (Picco) chain and kerf width: The picco chain makes a narrower kerf (not just the difference btw 1.3/1.6 mm), due to the teeth being narrower (less of a bar "overhang"). This chain/design is chosen mainly on low-powered saws (hobby/arborist), as it removes less material, thus requiring less power.

 

Also, the Low Profile (Picco) chains cut quite a bit slower than .325 and 3/8" chains - another reason not to go for it.

 

Think, for a minute, about why the only Stihl pro saw with a 3/8" Low Profile (Picco) chain is the 200T (and the 200 rear handle, which is not available for sale in the UK).

 

Conclusion: Stick with 13" - 15" bar and .325 chain on professional mid-range saws (Husqvarna 346XP, Stihl MS 26x, ...). They were designed that way for a reason.

[C.J]

I don't think the 3/8 LP bar will fit the 261.

 

But if you want to run a narrow kerf - Oregon do a 1.3mm guage bar in 0.325" pitch available in 13",15",16" and 18"

 

130MPGD025 for the 13" and uses 95VP chain(same as Husky pixel)

[Xerxses]

Valid points there Morten...

Couple of weeks ago I retook my CS30 and 31 eqvivalent in the swedish system. The Instructors (trained in the US) provided MS261, 361 with 18" bars and PMC3, 3/8 chains....

 

They outperformed any logging ive seen before...! Very good technique and ergonomics. This got me thinking. They are dedicated to Stihl which made me think about the Oregon bar as Stihl doesent make a 18" bar for 0,325 chains as far as I know?!?

 

Of course this was in a training environment so speed and comercial performence wasn't the main issue.

 

BUT the instructors also do logging and arboristwork as a part of their buisness and this combination is what they use!

 

I used both the 261 and the 361 and quite liked the balance of the 261 (and didnt feel it was lacking power...)

 

The saws I usually work with is a MS260 with a 13" bar or a Husky 346 with a 15" bar (these are old, and pre me in the company, and is due to be replaced.) Might be a MS200 rearhandle for the girls...! Yes there are some groundie girls with small hands:sneaky2:

Edited February 5, 2011 by Xerxses

[Xerxses]

I don't think the 3/8 LP bar will fit the 261.

 

It does (Rollomatic E) sprocket needs changing, thats it.

 

 

But if you want to run a narrow kerf - Oregon do a 1.3mm guage bar in 0.325" pitch available in 13",15",16" and 18"

 

130MPGD025 for the 13" and uses 95VP chain(same as Husky pixel)

 

And Oregon does make a 1,6mm bar for the 0.325 pitch (Ive seen it! But supposedly it doesent exist:sneaky2: But my supplier got one...)

 

Cheers for comment though! I will look into the Oregonbar you suggested.

[morten]

Valid points there Morten...

Couple of weeks ago a retook my CS30 and 31 eqvivalent in the swedish system. The Instructors (trained in the US) provided MS261, 361 with 18" bars and PMC3, 3/8 chains....

 

They outperformed any logging ive seen before...! Very good technique and ergonomics. This got me thinking. They are dedicated to Stihl which made me think about the Oregon bar as Stihl doesent make a 18" bar for 0,325 chains as far as I know?!?

 

Of course this was in a training environment so speed and comercialperformence wasn't the main issue.

 

BUT the instructors also do logging and arboristwork as a part of their buisness and this combination is what they use!

 

I used both the 261 and the 361 and quite liked the balance of the 261 (and didnt feel it was lacking power...)

 

The saws I usually work with is a MS260 with a 13" bar or a Husky 346 with a 15" bar (these are old, and pre me in the company, and is due to be replaced.) Might be a MS200 rearhandle for the girls...! Yes there are some groundie girls with small hands:sneaky2:

 

OK, then.

 

I didn't realise that you had already used a 261 with an 18" bar and 3/8" low profile chain, and liked it. That just goes to prove that sometimes all the theory (mine) i blown out by actual practical experience. And if you like using an 18" bar as your primary, then it doesn't make any difference what I think, does it?

 

I am a little surprised, though, that a CS31-equivalent (small trees up to 38 cm diameter) would suggest using 18" bars. At least in UK and Denmark, the limit is 15". But that is another story.

[Xerxses]

My intention was never to patronise... I didnt tell my full experience because I want/wanted the discussion and as much input as possible. Your points are still valuable AND will be taken into account before I make my mind up!