Anyone know anything about hydraulics?

[mikecotterill]

Nice one cheers Andy one last question tho while I've found someone who knows, would it be possible to convert the spool block above to electric somehow, it's the only problem I'm gonna have is having to be so close/or in the vehicle to operate it, would be ideal if I could fit a remote.

 

Rik happy new year mate. You know me not happy unless I'm wasting money on the old landy!

[treequip]

Nice one cheers Andy one last question tho while I've found someone who knows, would it be possible to convert the spool block above to electric somehow, it's the only problem I'm gonna have is having to be so close/or in the vehicle to operate it, would be ideal if I could fit a remote.

 

Rik happy new year mate. You know me not happy unless I'm wasting money on the old landy!

 

Ummmmm….

 

It’s probably do able but you would need to know the valve spec’s and manufacturer. A brand new 2 slice non proportional solenoid valve will cost about £250.00

 

What do you plan doing with the second service?

[mikecotterill]

Ok a bit steep for me, it's got a lever to go in the cab with a Bowden cable to operate it there, illhave to think of a way of doing it using that somehow.

 

Was thinking of running a splitter off the second line, but depends on getting the bits together to make one first!

Cheers again

[treequip]

Ok a bit steep for me, it's got a lever to go in the cab with a Bowden cable to operate it there, illhave to think of a way of doing it using that somehow.

 

Was thinking of running a splitter off the second line, but depends on getting the bits together to make one first!

Cheers again

 

Oh gawd not another tightwad, are you related to the armchair?

 

Ok here is how to cheap it.

 

Dump the valve you have (it’s what eBay is for) and fit a quick release coupling from the pump, now you can plug

this

HYDRAULIC CETOP 3 DIRECTIONAL CONTROL VALVE 3C60 12VDC on eBay (end time 20-Jan-11 22:40:08 GMT)

into the supply and remote it to operate the winch

 

and plug your splitter into the supply when needed.

 

You won’t be able to run both at once but when are you going to need to do that? You will also need to cut the pump drive while you swap over but it’s nothing someone with a bit of common cant manage.

 

Why do I get the tightwads, you can expect it from a Yorkshire man hanging on to his last fiver like it’s a matter of life or death but why is it spreading, mutters off into the night looking for the remainder of the malt some tight Yorkshire man gave him for Christmas…..(cheers Ed)

[b101uk]

Well not definitely a PRV but most likely. The PRV is there to protect system components in this case the pump. It goes in between the pump and the first valve. Put a tee union in the line and the spare port goes to the PRV port (most likely marked “P”).

 

The other port on the PRV (most likely marked “T”) goes to the tank.

 

The service valve you have has a built in PRV to protect the services.

 

I don’t make my own hoses anymore, I sold the swage because mostly all I got were ingrate farmers at bailing time.

 

with a spool block with a PRV there is no need for an extra PRV as a bleed off valve unless either A: the spool block is removable via QR couplings thus once removed there is no means of pressure regulation (should have a balance pipe for the QR couplings when the spool block is removed) or B: the pump flow capacity is higher than the spool block can handle.

 

if its a case of B: then you are wasting the speed element thus limiting potential fluid HP at the winch which will affect winch speed, and the spool block is incorrect for the application which in turn will result in excess heat in the hydraulic fluid due to constant high pressure in the feed line and thus bleed line given that with an open centre spool block shouldn’t be at a high pressure when non of the levers are in use as it should just be cycling fluid.

 

If its also a case of B: you WILL have to maintain the bleed line PRV and NOT replace it with a directional vale without a PRV some ware in case of accidental directional vale/PTO operation and/or without a balance pipe between the relevant pair of QR couplings when NOT in use.

 

[mikecotterill]

Haha pretty sure I'm not related, I don't mind spending when it'll earn me money but this probably won't, just saves my back when it getsused!

I'll look into that setup at the minute I just want to get it up and going and see how it all performs first.

[mikecotterill]

with a spool block with a PRV there is no need for an extra PRV as a bleed off valve unless either A: the spool block is removable via QR couplings thus once removed there is no means of pressure regulation (should have a balance pipe for the QR couplings when the spool block is removed) or B: the pump flow capacity is higher than the spool block can handle.

 

if its a case of B: then you are wasting the speed element thus limiting potential fluid HP at the winch which will affect winch speed, and the spool block is incorrect for the application which in turn will result in excess heat in the hydraulic fluid due to constant high pressure in the feed line and thus bleed line given that with an open centre spool block shouldn’t be at a high pressure when non of the levers are in use as it should just be cycling fluid.

 

If its also a case of B: you WILL have to maintain the bleed line PRV and NOT replace it with a directional vale without a PRV some ware in case of accidental directional vale/PTO operation and/or without a balance pipe between the relevant pair of QR couplings when NOT in use.

 

 

I read somewhere can't remember where tho, something along the lines of: the prv in the valve block is only for the winch as it's set lower than the tool/second service needs. So I presume the prv above is something to do with when your using a tool, and the prv in the valve block is bypassed somehow? One thing I do find strange about andys advice about putting it between pump and valve block is that there's a hose with the kit that us exactly the right length/ fittings to go from pump to valves. But it makes more sense to put it where Andy says, so thatswhere it's goin!

[b101uk]

I read somewhere can't remember where tho, something along the lines of: the prv in the valve block is only for the winch as it's set lower than the tool/second service needs. So I presume the prv above is something to do with when your using a tool, and the prv in the valve block is bypassed somehow? One thing I do find strange about andys advice about putting it between pump and valve block is that there's a hose with the kit that us exactly the right length/ fittings to go from pump to valves. But it makes more sense to put it where Andy says, so thatswhere it's goin!

 

 

the secondary PRV could well be fixed directly to the pump, hence the pipe from the pump to the spool valve being the right length and the hole in the secondary PRV that would normally be used for fixing it to something has been used for a switch bracket to light up a tell-tail lamp on the dash for when the PTO is engaged (assuming a transfer box PTO) with a lever to engage.

 

with FW525 & H14W with remote motor (short prop shaft) fixed via a bracket on the inside of the LH chassis rail ware the LHD steering box/pan hard rod affix, there were a number of motors available for the operating pressure to match your secondary service pressure so you didn’t need spool valves with PRV in each valve slice, but that’s not to say who ever did the winch in the first place didn’t fit different bits rather than order e.g. the correct motor, but if this secondary PRV did fit in the system you have all the piping then working from the tank backwards down the return towards the spool block should reveal ware this secondary PRV returns to the tank as there will be extra pipes of a fixed length, the other thing this "PRV" may be for is a bypass for the cooler & filter in case the filter becomes clogged.

Edited January 3, 2011 by b101uk