Which wood is best??

[MattB70]

I am new on this site so please forgive me if I'm revisiting similar territory.

I am a sculptor albeit using a different medium though wish to use wood. I wish to produce larger scale work not small scale carving...so which wood is the best for this in a natural state. I know that all wood when it seasons cracks and that many carve out of laminated strips as a result....but which when just simply cut will dry out the most favourably..?

 

all the best Matt:biggrin:

[tommer9]

Hi Matt. Welcome to A.T.

 

I supply to a few chainsaw carvers, and they like various softwoods, most of which are very stable, such as Western Red CEdar (thuja plicata), they LOVE leylandii (it is very stable, doesnt crack too much, and is very durable) and they also like Monterey cypress (cupressus macrocarpa). These are all very nice grained timbers with lovely colour too. Yew is an obvious one too.

 

As far as hardwoods are concerned, the you will have issues with cracking more than with softwoods, and I have found that most are okay, but ash seems to be a no-no with them. My buyers like sycamore, beech, oak, elm.

 

TBH most are good. I am sure that some of the carvers will be along soon to correct me and put you right though!LOL

[robbo 110]

:thumbup1:hi matt, im trying to avoid de-railing your question but was just wondering what material you are / have been carving with? im sure no one would mind if you put on a link to your work in a reply

[ronnyrocket]

Here in the States, "Bass Wood" is a favorite amongst carvers. It is a soft wood that carves like butter. In many instances a Mallet isn't necessary. Pretty stable after finishing.

[john dawson]

Poplars and willows are great for practice pieces, not very durable in the long run tho.

[Roni Macdonald]

Lime is very popular, nice to carve, great for detail, not much character but does not crack badly.

[ashyc]

Hi Matt,

 

Wood that's been felled when the sap is up (maximum moisture content, maximum cracking potential) is worth avoiding. Lime felled in the summer cracks like mad!

 

Straight trunks of a tree without branch intersections have the least tension. Branches need to support weight on the underside and so the branches structure varies massively meaning that tensions are non-uniform and cracking is more likely than working with a straight piece from the trunk.

 

There's always a trade off between durability and stability. Weston red cedar can be very stable and when MATURE even contains a natural fungicides.

 

I'm fairly sure all sapwood is not durable. Make a carving out of a durable oak species and watch the sapwood perish! So tons of wood preserver on the sapwood if it must stay.

 

That'll do for now

 

Good luck

Ash