First chainsaw

[kram]

I forgot to mention the cutters. From the pic it looks like they have been used excessively whilst blunt and would take a lot of sharpening to get right. No problem if you know how a chain should be but a frustrating task if its your first chainsaw.

 

It also looks like its been in the dirt, the bar nose could likely use a clean get all the dirt out of the rails, remove any burrs and grease the nose sprocket.

[Rustington]

On 07/03/2025 at 19:22, kram said:

No offence intended but using a badly maintained saw is dangerous along with a lack of experience it may not end well.

Where abouts are you? I am sure somone local could give it a quick check over and help you get the basics right. I am in Sussex if that helps.

 

From the spec it shows as a 3/8 LP 0.43"  16" bar and chain. Could I suggest this set, its a shorter 14" bar, 4 chains. Wider gauge but you'd likely not notice the
difference, its got enough power for it. I have used these and they last well enough.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B09ZKKFPW6

 

Whatever you do, dont bother with your local shop as it will cost a lot without learning the basics, you'll be back with wallet open in a matter of minutes.

Thanks for the recommendation. I’ve ordered a set, I’ll let you know how I get on.

[Steven P]

Didn't see this one over the weekend, but if you are getting a new chain... the big blue dial near the chain takes the chain cover off, might be a good time also to give all that a good clean - generally a wipe with a cloth to get the dust and old oil out. Make a note to clear anything that might be an oil way as well - so generally all a good clean.

 

Putting the new chain on I'd normally go tight enough that the chain spins fairly freely but if you pull it away from the bar - half way along - the drive links come out half way (ie they are still half in the bar: Drive links the bit that runs inside the bar). Probably a whole can of worms there but kind of that tight if no one mentioned that before.

 

Chain tension is probably a turning dial somewhere on the chain cover, loosen the cover a bit, tension, tighten the cover.

 

Note also that a new chain will be sharp enough to cut...

 

Looking at the pictures, as above a blunt chain trying to cut, getting to hot. You can buy files to sharpen your new chain or a shop can do that (If I remember right, mine was about half the price of a new chain), if going DIY, put in an expectation that the first chain won't last as long as subsequent ones. Chain file set I had was about the cost of a chain.

 

 

[Rustington]

33 minutes ago, Steven P said:

Didn't see this one over the weekend, but if you are getting a new chain... the big blue dial near the chain takes the chain cover off, might be a good time also to give all that a good clean - generally a wipe with a cloth to get the dust and old oil out. Make a note to clear anything that might be an oil way as well - so generally all a good clean.

 

Putting the new chain on I'd normally go tight enough that the chain spins fairly freely but if you pull it away from the bar - half way along - the drive links come out half way (ie they are still half in the bar: Drive links the bit that runs inside the bar). Probably a whole can of worms there but kind of that tight if no one mentioned that before.

 

Chain tension is probably a turning dial somewhere on the chain cover, loosen the cover a bit, tension, tighten the cover.

 

Note also that a new chain will be sharp enough to cut...

 

Looking at the pictures, as above a blunt chain trying to cut, getting to hot. You can buy files to sharpen your new chain or a shop can do that (If I remember right, mine was about half the price of a new chain), if going DIY, put in an expectation that the first chain won't last as long as subsequent ones. Chain file set I had was about the cost of a chain.

 

 

Nice advice, thank you.

 

Im pretty confident I can change the chain and give it a good clean without any issues.

Getting the correct tension, I’d imagine there’s differing opinions.

I’ll check out some videos and post here if need be.

[Stubby]

10 minutes ago, Rustington said:

Nice advice, thank you.

 

Im pretty confident I can change the chain and give it a good clean without any issues.

Getting the correct tension, I’d imagine there’s differing opinions.

I’ll check out some videos and post here if need be.

When you tension the chain make sure you lift the bar before you nip it up . The way I do it is to do the nuts ( or whatever it is on that saw ) up finger tight , hold the saw by the back handle and drop the bar tip on a log and tighten . If you don't do this after the first cut the bar will move up fractionally making the chain slack again .

[kram]

Chain tension should have minimal slack when pulled from the bar whilst still moving freely when its pushed round, it shouldnt take any effort. If too tight it will heat up and stretch. More important that it moves free than the slack. Whilst your learning, check it often.

 

If the chain has got hot, let it cool down before you set it, as it will shrink as it cools. Hot likely means it is blunt.

 

Some saws need the cover tightend before checking -other saws you can do it while its loose enough for adjusting.

 

New chains may need adjustment after a few cuts.

Edited Monday at 19:28 by kram