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Honing cylinders


Aled Hughes
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If you are just doing the odd one for yourself personally - wet and dry - take your time avoiding going in and out. Honing with power takes skill and you can easily over do it. Then if all else fails, ive been very impressed with meteor cylinders. 

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16 minutes ago, Muddy42 said:

If you are just doing the odd one for yourself personally - wet and dry - take your time avoiding going in and out. Honing with power takes skill and you can easily over do it. Then if all else fails, ive been very impressed with meteor cylinders. 

As adw mentioned the flex hone but like you say the old method works fine if its a one off. Might have to think about this one thanks.

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I have use two and three leg cylinder hones. Yo have to be careful not to catch an open transfer or ports but you can get a good finish and one hone will do all chainsaw bore sizes unlike the ball hones although they are probably better but much more expensive.

Don't use the hone to remove the transfer, use chemical and localised rubbing and follow through with the hone to break the glaze and give a good rough surface to bed the new piston in.

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44 minutes ago, spudulike said:

I have use two and three leg cylinder hones. Yo have to be careful not to catch an open transfer or ports but you can get a good finish and one hone will do all chainsaw bore sizes unlike the ball hones although they are probably better but much more expensive.

Don't use the hone to remove the transfer, use chemical and localised rubbing and follow through with the hone to break the glaze and give a good rough surface to bed the new piston in.

Thanks spud many options to consider.

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