Husqvarna 268xpg

[Aled Hughes]

Any of you guys out there that can give me advice on the above saws non working g. I have a multimeter so I can use that at the switch connection but just need to know what to set it at and what readings I should get. Any more advice welcomed thanks

Edited April 21, 2023 by Aled Hughes

[spudulike]

The first question is what is the "sap's" as I have not come across such a chainsaw part.

I think you had better re-read your post and make it more coherent.

[adw]

Saps? However if we are talking about the heated handles, then you need to do a continuity test from the wire that connects to the generator up to the switch, no continuity then no handle heating, I have never had to replace a generator, they never go wrong unless the wire is broken, this is an old saw so prone now to wires breaking, the heater element runs on the underside of the top handle, so and damage in this area will break the contact , it is not possible to have just one handle working.

[Aled Hughes]

1 hour ago, adw said:

Saps? However if we are talking about the heated handles, then you need to do a continuity test from the wire that connects to the generator up to the switch, no continuity then no handle heating, I have never had to replace a generator, they never go wrong unless the wire is broken, this is an old saw so prone now to wires breaking, the heater element runs on the underside of the top handle, so and damage in this area will break the contact , it is not possible to have just one handle working.

Sorry predictive txt should have read saws. So a partial tear down to get to the generator or is there a way to measure current at the switch when the saw is running to avoid the teardown? Thanks

[Aled Hughes]

2 hours ago, spudulike said:

The first question is what is the "sap's" as I have not come across such a chainsaw part.

I think you had better re-read your post and make it more coherent.

Sorry spudulike predictive txt now corrected.

[spudulike]

You should be able to measure the resistance between the cylinder (earth) and the wire that comes off the generator mounted behind the flywheel. I don't know what to expect but you should get a reading if measured on a relatively high resistance setting...say 20kohms. You could fire it up and measure the voltage from the same earth and wire connection but disconnect the generator wire from the rest of the circuit as you may have a short back to earth. 

I have seen the magnet on the inside back of flywheels break up (not the coil ignition magnets) and have also seen old machines have the non heated handle flywheel fitted after failure of the original.

ADW will have a more detailed angle on this as I haven't done one for a long while but what I have said will prove the generator works and you may have to remove the flywheel to check the magnet or slip a thin feeler gauge round the back of the flywheel to see if the magnet pulls the feeler towards it....but do this away from the flywheel coil magnets.

Checking the switch is a straight continuity test with the switch open or closed, the switches are normally sliding contact type making them pretty reliable. The rest of it is metering out the components and wiring 

[Aled Hughes]

4 hours ago, spudulike said:

You should be able to measure the resistance between the cylinder (earth) and the wire that comes off the generator mounted behind the flywheel. I don't know what to expect but you should get a reading if measured on a relatively high resistance setting...say 20kohms. You could fire it up and measure the voltage from the same earth and wire connection but disconnect the generator wire from the rest of the circuit as you may have a short back to earth. 

I have seen the magnet on the inside back of flywheels break up (not the coil ignition magnets) and have also seen old machines have the non heated handle flywheel fitted after failure of the original.

ADW will have a more detailed angle on this as I haven't done one for a long while but what I have said will prove the generator works and you may have to remove the flywheel to check the magnet or slip a thin feeler gauge round the back of the flywheel to see if the magnet pulls the feeler towards it....but do this away from the flywheel coil magnets.

Checking the switch is a straight continuity test with the switch open or closed, the switches are normally sliding contact type making them pretty reliable. The rest of it is metering out the components and wiring 

spudulike. Thanks so much for your prompt reply, I'll get onto it and keep you posted. It really needs wakening up aswell so probably get back to you regarding that unless you'd like to reply with your thoughts Thanks 

[spudulike]

You can wake these older machines up quite considerably. I used to find that they needed a good going over first as their crank seals, AV mounts, carb parts, pressure/vac test and many other parts need checking before thinking about tuning work.

BTW, I am pretty much out of the game now and am only doing a little local work if it presents itself.

 

[Aled Hughes]

Ah right ok shame really would love to have it opened up. Think I need to tear it down as revs were raising yesterday when I laid her on the ground whilst clearing a huge beech. Any recommendations on someone? Done fancy sending it to the states for tinman to do 😄

[spudulike]

Some on here have used a fella with username "Crocky". I can't personally recommend him as I don't know him but others have.